RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Screwdriver

Jon, get yourself a blowtorch and some penetrant oil. Where you can heat the screw area without affecting machining or seals then apply the heat and when it is half cold squirt in the oil before doing your impact driver bit.. Sometimes if screws are really rusted in you can take the head of the screw off or damage the screw head. With the viewports you wont be able to use the heat. With Stainless screws into aluminium or steel on refitting I am using Duralac. I know there are some other products in the US. And Europe and it would be good to find out what the best is. Rgds, Hugh

From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Jon Wallace
Sent: Wednesday, 26 October 2011 6:27 p.m.
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Screwdriver

I'll pick one up this week. The round head screws holding in the viewport retaining rings on the conning tower are also being difficult so it will come in handy there as well. It looks like there might not be enough room in the motor housing for hex bolt heads, but I'm surprised to see round head machine screws holding in the viewport retaining rings rather than hex heads. The round heads are stainless, but very soft and slotted, not phillips.

Jon

On 10/25/2011 8:12 PM, JimToddPsub@aol.com wrote:

Jon,

I have to second that. I've been pounding on the same impact driver for 40 years and it doesn't seem to show much wear. It will stay put pretty well on Phillips heads, however on a straight slotted screw with some wear, it sometimes (not often) requires a little help.

Take a piece of metal tubing with an i.d. just big enough to slip over the impact driver bit and cut the tubing to 1/2" length. Drill a hole in a 1/2" thick piece of wood just large enough to tightly fit or glue the tubing in the hole in the wood. Slip the bit through the tubing and into the screw slot, then clamp the wood in place. There are any number of variations depending on the situation.

Jim

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