|
Thanks, Alan,
Drag is a consideration for me. I'm thinking of fairings
and/or having the chimneys screw on, hadn't really thought about the
diameter. They wouldn't necessarily have to be steel, could be PVC.
That way you could have different lengths, change them very easily, remove them
for easy access, and integrate removable strainers. I like the 6" screw-in
access ports you mentioned on the endcaps.
I'll look forward to seeing more pics and drawings; never tire
of seeing what someone has done, hearing how it works, or how it didn't
work.
Jim
In a message dated 2/3/2011 1:41:02 P.M. Central Standard Time,
subguy33@yahoo.com writes:
| Jim:
I'll try to post something to illustrate the system. As for the
chimneys, I've been satisfied with the dimensions. One could certainly
make them longer, and therefore even more spill-proof, if there is space
available and you weren't concerned with the extra drag. Chimney
diameter is fine and more than adequate for the volume/velocity of flow
needed. Could probably even reduce the diameter, but as it is I can
squeeze a hand up there to fiddle with linkages if needed. Also, I
should mention that each flat endcap has a 6" screw-in access port to
allow servicing of the valves.
Alan --- On Thu, 2/3/11, JimToddPsub@aol.com
<JimToddPsub@aol.com> wrote:
From:
JimToddPsub@aol.com <JimToddPsub@aol.com>
Subject: Re:
[PSUBS-MAILIST] Saddle Tank Vents
To:
personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Date: Thursday, February 3, 2011,
2:09 PM
Hi Alan [Winick],
I saw the chimneys in the photo you have posted on the Psubs
site. I think we would all like to see whatever additional pics
or sketches you have of any aspect of Explorer. If you were
designing the chimneys now, would you keep the diameter and length the
same or would you change them?
Thanks much,
Jim T
In a message dated 2/3/2011 12:23:23 P.M. Central Standard Time,
subguy33@yahoo.com writes:
Hello!
I employ saddle tanks on my sub Explorer. I
don't have a diagram readily available but here goes a rough
description of the vent system:
Each tank is a cylinder with
flat endcaps over which is a hemispherical fairing. The opening at
the bottom of each tank is a 4" diam "chimney" that extends down
about 5". There are fore and aft vents, each at the 12 o'clock
position on the interior surface of the flat endcaps.
I
fabricated simple spring-loaded valves that are basically silicone
stoppers in a tube with a sealing seat. The valves are normally held
closed by the springs. Actuating arms run from each valve to a
central pivot point inside the tank, then another arm extends down
through the chimney to a lever arm welded to a rotating
through-hull.
Inside the cabin are levers port and
starboard. Moving the levers causes the actuating arms to pull the
valves open, etc. The fairings have holes to let the bubbles out.
Never had airlocks, and the chimneys allow for some serious fore-aft
pitch without spilling air.
Confused yet? Sorry for the wordy
mess. Let me know if you need a sketch. I'll scan something and
email to you.
Best,
Alan
--- On Thu, 2/3/11, James
Frankland <jamesf@guernseysubmarine.com> wrote:
From:
James Frankland <jamesf@guernseysubmarine.com>
Subject:
[PSUBS-MAILIST] Saddle Tank
Vents
To:
personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Date: Thursday, February 3, 2011,
12:17 PM
Hi All,
I'm nearly done with my hatch
locking mechanisms and will be starting on the main tank assembly
very
soon.
http://www.guernseysubmarine.com/Extended_files/Page6497.htm
I
have made the sub as per the plans to take the standard K350 main
tank assembly. I was intending to make part of the front tank
contain "viewports" so as to not destroy the view from my new
dome. Similar to Doug Privitts sub. But im really
very tempted to change the design to use saddle tanks instead.
This would be for 2 reasons, first it would not obstruct my front
dome and second, the tanks could be completely enclosed (appart from
the holes at the bottom) which would make the boat a lot more
resistant to accidental flooding of the tanks. The
waters around here can be a little bit choppy even on nice days, so
i'd prefer the stability of completely enclosed
tanks.
Anyway, the problem is that i have the vents
and high pressure air in the "standard" places. OK, the HP air
wouldnt be too difficult to route to a saddle tank but the vents are
not as easy. i only have 1 vent per tank and im pretty
sure i should have the ability to vent either front or back or the
tanks. So if the subs longitudinal trim changed and it tipped
forward or back. i'd still be able to complete the vent.
Option 1 is to put a vent pipe from the back
of 1 tank, passing along the top to the front of the tank where
it joins to a second vent hole and then combined, they go to my
valve. I dont think this will work as im sure if it tipped the
wrong way, i'd get an airlock even though there was a vent
there.
Option 2 is to pipe both tanks front vents
together to 1 valve and similarily both tanks rear vents together to
the other valve. Even so, with the position of the rear vents
relative to the valve, i still may get
airlocks.
Sorry its a bit difficult to understand
written down, i should have drawn a picture but im at work, just
thinking about what to do...
Any suggestions?
What have other people done for saddle tank vents?
Kind
Regards
James
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