| Jim:
I'll try to post something to illustrate the system. As for the chimneys, I've been satisfied with the dimensions. One could certainly make them longer, and therefore even more spill-proof, if there is space available and you weren't concerned with the extra drag. Chimney diameter is fine and more than adequate for the volume/velocity of flow needed. Could probably even reduce the diameter, but as it is I can squeeze a hand up there to fiddle with linkages if needed. Also, I should mention that each flat endcap has a 6" screw-in access port to allow servicing of the valves.
Alan --- On Thu, 2/3/11, JimToddPsub@aol.com <JimToddPsub@aol.com> wrote:
From: JimToddPsub@aol.com
<JimToddPsub@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Saddle Tank Vents
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Date: Thursday, February 3, 2011, 2:09 PM
Hi Alan [Winick],
I saw the chimneys in the photo you have posted on the Psubs site. I
think we would all like to see whatever additional pics or sketches you have of
any aspect of Explorer. If you were designing the chimneys now, would you
keep the diameter and length the same or would you change them?
Thanks much,
Jim T
In a message dated 2/3/2011 12:23:23 P.M. Central Standard Time,
subguy33@yahoo.com writes:
Hello!
I employ saddle tanks on my sub Explorer. I don't
have a diagram readily available but here goes a rough description of the vent
system:
Each tank is a cylinder with flat endcaps over which is a
hemispherical fairing. The opening at the bottom of each tank is a 4" diam
"chimney" that extends down about 5". There are fore and aft vents, each at
the 12 o'clock position on the interior surface of the flat endcaps.
I
fabricated simple spring-loaded valves that are basically silicone stoppers in
a tube with a sealing seat. The valves are normally held closed by the
springs. Actuating arms run from each valve to a central pivot point inside
the tank, then another arm extends down through the chimney to a lever arm
welded to a rotating through-hull.
Inside the cabin are levers port
and starboard. Moving the levers causes the actuating arms to pull the valves
open, etc. The fairings have holes to let the bubbles out. Never had airlocks,
and the chimneys allow for some serious fore-aft pitch without spilling
air.
Confused yet? Sorry for the wordy mess. Let me know if you need a
sketch. I'll scan something and email to you.
Best,
Alan
---
On Thu, 2/3/11, James Frankland <jamesf@guernseysubmarine.com>
wrote:
From: James Frankland
<jamesf@guernseysubmarine.com>
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Saddle
Tank
Vents
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Date: Thursday,
February 3, 2011, 12:17 PM
Hi All,
I'm nearly done with my
hatch locking mechanisms and will be starting on the main tank assembly very
soon.
http://www.guernseysubmarine.com/Extended_files/Page6497.htm
I
have made the sub as per the plans to take the standard K350 main tank
assembly. I was intending to make part of the front tank contain
"viewports" so as to not destroy the view from my new dome. Similar to
Doug Privitts sub. But im really very tempted to change the design
to use saddle tanks instead. This would be for 2 reasons, first it would
not obstruct my front dome and second, the tanks could be completely enclosed
(appart from the holes at the bottom) which would make the boat a lot
more resistant to accidental flooding of the tanks. The
waters around here can be a little bit choppy even on nice days, so i'd prefer
the stability of completely enclosed tanks.
Anyway, the
problem is that i have the vents and high pressure air in the "standard"
places. OK, the HP air wouldnt be too difficult to route to a saddle
tank but the vents are not as easy. i only have 1 vent per tank and
im pretty sure i should have the ability to vent either front or back or the
tanks. So if the subs longitudinal trim changed and it tipped forward or
back. i'd still be able to complete the vent.
Option 1 is to put a vent pipe from the back of 1 tank,
passing along the top to the front of the tank where it joins to a second
vent hole and then combined, they go to my valve. I dont think this will
work as im sure if it tipped the wrong way, i'd get an airlock even though
there was a vent there.
Option 2 is to pipe both tanks front
vents together to 1 valve and similarily both tanks rear vents together to the
other valve. Even so, with the position of the rear vents relative to
the valve, i still may get airlocks.
Sorry its a bit
difficult to understand written down, i should have drawn a picture but im at
work, just thinking about what to do...
Any suggestions?
What have other people done for saddle tank vents?
Kind
Regards
James
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