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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] linear actuators



Hi Frank,
I'm persevering with compensating these actuators.
Phil's post was very helpful with regard to what was going on with the "herky jerky" operation of the motor.
I have 2 products to try that a chemical sales person suggested. One is D60, the other solvent T.
The D60 has a higher flash point than WD40 & doesn't have the aromatics that can degrade plastics.
I'm happy with brushless actuator motors as long as they run OK. I'm guessing I won't be using this sub every
day, so wear & tear shouldn't won't be an issue with the actuator motor.
Like you I simulated the actuator & boot action.
Will keep you posted on how things turn out.
Re the duty cycle; my larger actuators (4000 N) had only 10% duty cycle, but from what I can gather, the duty cycle
is related to the load. So if the duty cycle on the Lenco actuators are low it might not necessarily mean they are
no good for our use if we are running them a lot below their maximum load. Don't take my word for it, you may know
better.
Regards Alan
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 3:08 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] linear actuators

Hi Alan. Sorry, I don't have any info on the Lenco's. Brushless is definitely the way to go for any sub use. Better efficiency, less maintenance, but pricey.
On the bellows thing.....by minimizing the air volume in the bellows at sea level, `the contracting air won't be a problem.
Here's what I have done with the crappy Firgelli actuator on the bench.------
Retracted the rod completely, slipped the rubber bellows over the end and attached it with duct tape and a hose clamp onto the body of the actuator. I spread some vaseline on the rod.
I squeezed/retracted the bellows until it was completely collapsed with a minimum amount of air inside.
I then stretched the bellows "small end" onto the rod and hose clamped it on making sure no lubricant was near that end.  It's a tight fit on the polished rod end.
I removed the end cap on the actuator where the wires come out, slathered it with auto gasket silicone and screwed it back on. There's some empty space inside the actuator body but not a lot.
After letting it set up over night, I hooked the two wires to a 9 volt battery and extended the rod.
The rubber bellows expanded as expected. What happened was the bellows "pleats" deformed and got all "wrinkly" because the outer circumference of the pleats was being forced into a smaller diameter but the pleats themselves stayed more-or-less touching due to lack of air. The pleats kind of "sucked down" onto the shaft as it extended. This was part of the demonstration I had planned for the convention.
I was having fun making it go in and out and so was observing how the rubber was being stressed and stretched. After the fifth cycle the gasket stuff on the end cap let go around the wires hole and air got sucked in there. I could tell easily because the shape of the bellows changed and after it was fully extended the rubber kept expanding back to it's original shape. Then when I retracted it again it swelled up like a balloon and finally forced the air past the duct tape/clamp on the body. 
Now this was just a funky exercise on the bench and didn't last very long but the point was to see what would happen to the bellows.
There is a bit of abuse to the bellows because they're not really designed to stretch that way, but with a replacement cost of $6 each and pretty easy to slip a new one on there, if I can get  50 or a hundred cycles out of the bellows it's a good start.
By looking at how the rubber deforms, it seems to me that a bellows with a different profile would work without breaking down. The bellows I'm using are just mud boots for power steering linkage on a car.
If I could get a "spiral" shaped bellows or maybe a "square" bodied one, that might work better.
Anyway, the concept seems to be workable but the materials need a little tinkering with.
Frank D.