Yeah…it would definitely be nerve
wracking. We better take along some light reading material for the wait.
Greg Cottrell
Project Manager
http://www.precisionplastics.com
P please consider the environment before printing this email
From: owner-
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010
11:39 AM
To:
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST]
Bubble of doom
A vent
valve, perhaps? Just to let the air bubble out. Water from the flood valve
lower down would continue to equalize. It would be a nerve wracking wait,
though, wouldn't it?
-----Original
Message-----
From: Greg Cottrell <greg@precisionplastics.com>
To:
Sent: Fri, Aug 20, 2010 11:01 am
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Bubble of doom
Hi Vance,
You’ve brought up an interesting point
about the release of air from a sub during egress. George Kittredge had a
similar experience of being “shot out” of a sub (although his sub was full of
over pressurized air). I wonder if it might be a good idea to put a flood valve
in the hatch to flood a sub completely before getting out?
Greg Cottrell
Project Manager
P please
consider the environment before printing this email
From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of vbra676539@aol.com
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 9:25
AM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Scuba
tank hook up
Alan,
I must be missing something here. What is
the last 15% of the volume in a flooding scenario? I've never had to do it, but
flooding the boat equalizes pressure inside and out. The volume of air
compresses in a
One caveat about air in the boat that I
do know about is the violence of that bubble's release when the hatch is
opened. In the Nekton Beta accident, the bubble shot Rick Slater out of the
boat like a cork out of a champagne bottle, and the sudden movement of water
flooding in to replace that air is probably what caused the other passenger to
bang his head, which either caused directly or contributed to his drowning at
depth. Based on that, it seems that a larger bubble might very well cause
proportionally larger problems.
Mind you, flooding the boat is a pretty
big problem all by itself. It gives me the shivers just thinking about it.
Vance
-----Original
Message-----
From: Recon1st@aol.com
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Fri, Aug 20, 2010 8:53 am
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Scuba tank hook up
Alan I would not use air
to equalize in an emergency. I would simply open my flood
valve and let the
incoming water do the job. This would allow time to equalize your
ears and such. And the
volume of air exploding from the tower is much less violent.
Personally I prefer to
have full pressure to the hull and regulate it inside. In all scenarios
I can think of, a high
flow is not needed. Filling tanks and such, a slow fill seems to be
much more controllable.
Dean
In a message dated 8/19/2010 6:52:01 P.M.
Central Daylight Time, alanjames@xtra.co.nz
writes:
Hi Dean,
I've got more questions than answers here.
If we use air to pressurize the last 15% of the sub volume in an emergency escape,
wouldn't it be better to have the full pressure of the tank coming in through the hull?
I googled but couldn't find anything on the flow rate of air coming straight out of a
scuba tank compared to what it might be coming out of a first stage regulator or
your 250 psi regulator. ( I guess hose width figures in the equation.)
I did open up my dive tank into a rubbish bag & it blew it up about 4 x faster straight from
the tank at 3000 psi than from the 2nd stage purge valve.
In the case of a 200ft deep escape your 250 psi regulator would be operating at 150 psi
above the ambient pressure required in the hull to do the final equalization. Having a faster
fill might make the difference between getting the bends or not.
Alan
----- Original Message -----
From: Recon1st@aol.com
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 6:55 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Scuba tank hook up
Sorry for the omission. The Tanks will be external and all I would need is HP. I have
regulators inside and the ability to crank em up to 250 psi. I guess what I am looking for
is yoke type with out the regulator.
Dean
In a message dated 8/19/2010 11:26:37 A.M. Central Daylight Time, vbra676539@aol.com writes:
External or internal? And are you set up for high pressure or not? HP air can be had with a simple yoke (like a first stage without the regulator). If you need lower pressure, then the first stage will work fine. George carried his internally, which was an issue at depth because scuba first stages can only be cranked up to about 150-160 pounds. Externally, you get that over ambient, which gives you full flow. The only other issue is flow. The 1st stage arrangement is pretty slow.
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: Recon1st@aol.com
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Thu, Aug 19, 2010 12:03 pm
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Scuba tank hook upWhat have any of you done to hook up standard SCUBA tanks for HP air source.
Originally I was using a large steel tank. It is just too heavy to handle and I am
switching to twin Aluminum 100 tanks.
I am thinking a scuba first stage regulator is used with an adaptor at the thru hull
connection.
Appreciate any help
Dean