RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] New photos

Hello all

For those interested I just uploaded some more pictures of the conning tower flange and rebuilt Hatch, things moving along nicely now, the new name will be “Deep Sea Hunter 1” or DSH-1 has a ring to it

Brian V. Ryder

brian@subatlantic.com

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From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of s
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 10:14 AM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hello Emile

I have visited this topic of compensating electric trolling motors such as the minnkota motor many times on psubs over the past few years. there is obviously a wealth of knowledge out there between you guys but for a newby like myself drilling willy nilly into a motors outer shell with little understanding of land marks and inner workings scares the hell out of me, let alone fill a motor with a liquid and expect it to continue work . i have been looking at the photos on the psub site taking great interest in the motors and their "plumbing" but im sorry to say , i need idiot proof assistance in his part of my construction. is there anyone of you guys that has taken step by step photos and made written instructions on how to pressure comp a motor? oil, air or other methods, what about loss of oil and reservoir systems. what works best...etc. i have 5 minnkota motors to do, all 30-45 HP

Many thanks in advance

shayne

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org]On Behalf Of Greg Cottrell
Sent: Friday, 30 April 2010 10:53 PM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hello Emile

Hello Emile,

I’ve been using WD-40 in the thrusters too. WD-40 is basically made up of a combination of baby oil, Vaseline, and a variety of “alkanes” (like nonane, decane, undecane and tridecane). The great thing about alkanes is that they cannot be ionized and therefore cannot bind with hydrogen, making them water repellant. One thing I like about WD is that it doesn’t produce as big of an “oil slick” on the water if some ever escapes. Oils slicks following your sub are not good!!! I think that the gas produced is cause by arcing of the brushes in compounds with slightly higher vapor pressure. The only real downside to WD-40 is that the Vaseline component can degrade the rubber seals over time (like any petroleum based lube) but it takes awhile.

Cheers!

Greg Cottrell

Project Manager

greg@precisionplastics.com

http://www.precisionplastics.com

P please consider the environment before printing this email

From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of vbra676539@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 4:12 PM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] compensating

Might be time to build a tank for testing. I like hydraulic oil better than silicone. It is actually slicker. We used it by the drum with the Pisces boats.

Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: Emile van Essen <emile@airesearch.nl>
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Thu, Apr 29, 2010 3:01 pm
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] compensating

Hi, The compensation subject again…

We compensate the Eurosub engines with WD40. Work fine at depth but somehow the engines create gas so we have to pressure relief the compensation bottles every few dive hours. I try to get thin silicone oil to see if that works better.

For the time being I wonder how deep Minn kota’s etc. can operate NOT compensated (no oil and plugged).

Any thoughts/ expirience ??

Regards, Emile van Essen