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RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch pressure



Alan,  PVHO says you should allow for 8psi internal pressure.  Relief valves have a cracking pressure so you will get at least 2 psi from that for cheap ones.  More expensive – better characteristics.  If you are going to have air for BIBS buoyancy etc you have to allow for leakage or failure.  Hugh

 

 

From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Alan James
Sent: Thursday, 18 February 2010 10:57 a.m.
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch pressure

 

Thanks Carsten & Alec, thats great information.

I'll add a pressure equalizing valve. If I had a manually operated valve it may

cause problems If I forgot to open it.

I'm not building a K250, the dome on order is being blown 550mm O/D & from 35mm

thick acrylic. I've asked them to trim the flange to 15mm wide & 15mm thick & will have

a retaining ring holding it down.

I was concerned that maybe I'd gone a bit thin to support the upward lifting force of the

dome but it calculates out to  about 1 pound for every inch of flange just at below the surface.

Thats providing as Carsten said, the barametric pressure isn't higher than outside the sub.

Alan

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Smyth, Alec

Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2010 9:24 AM

Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch pressure

 

Hi Alan,

 

If it's a K-250 you're building, here's your other data point. I just weighed the hatch, and it's 23.5 kg. So it would be 6.5 kg buoyant. 

 

Alec 

 

 

 


From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Alan James
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2010 2:47 PM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch pressure

Hi thanks people,

I was having trouble understanding this. I just put plastic wrap loosly

over the top of a glass & submerged it. Some of the wrap bulged up

but you could push parts down below the level of the top of the glass.

( This proves you right )

I am going with  a dome hatch, but haven't designed the locking mechanism yet.

The dome will be close to  30kg of boyancy before its mounted.

Alan

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Smyth, Alec

Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2010 6:51 AM

Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch pressure

 

First weigh the hatch in air. Then calculate the displacement of the hatch, which is the weight of the water that would fill an equivalent volume. Subtract the displacement from the weight. If you get a negative number, the hatch will tend to "float" as you describe. I doubt very much that would be the case for any conventional elliptical steel hatch. In the case of an acrylic dome hatch like the K-250, I'd recommend doing the math because I'm less sure of the outcome -- those might be slightly buoyant.

 

Alec

 


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From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Alan James
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2010 11:50 AM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch pressure

Hi all,

I've brought up this subject before, but are tackling it from a differant angle.

How much pressure is exerted upward on a hatch at the moment where the submarine

just submerges below the water? This is the point of most force before external water

pressure helps close it.

If you took your submarine, filled it with water & hung it upside down, would this be the

same amount of force, or close to it.

In wich case if you have a design like Franks flying saucer that angles up to the hatch,

you'd have a lot more force acting upward on the hatch than a K250 where the lifting force

would be spread more evenly along the hull.

Am I thinking right?

Alan

 

 



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The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

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