Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Lubrication

If they're already welded in and painted, I suggest you take the sub out and have some fun. However you probably have an item here for your first rebuild -- I think you'll find it worthwhile at that time to replace all through-hull seats and shafts with 316 SS. With each rebuild I do more of that myself, and will soon be at the point where pretty much everything but the hull plate and stiffeners is SS or plastic. To give you am idea, this winter the little pipe nipples for blowing air into MBTs or letting water into the depth gauge are going stainless. I just really dislike rust.

Alec

On Feb 3, 2010, at 5:18 AM, "kocpnt tds.net" <kocpnt@tds.net> wrote:

Hi Hugh,

I appreciate the comments. With the exception of two shafts which are 1 1/4 in diameter, the rest ate 1 inch in diameter. Clearance was originally about 3 thousandths of an inch, however after welding and reaming I am sure it's a bit more.

This is my own design for the most part, taking what I felt were the best of several designs and applying it to my plans.

These parts and weldments are already built, welded to the hull and painted, so unless there is a compeling reason I will have to deal with them as they are.

I am thinking of Greg's liquid based parafin oil. Do you feel this would be better at controlling corrosion in these bores?

Most are designed to be easy to dissasemble for maintenance.

Best Regards,

Jim K

On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 11:36 PM, Hugh Fulton <hc.fulton@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Jim,

Well if you have good clearance and you had the bell crank galvanized then you wont have any problems but it would be nice to see a cross section drawing of what you are proposing. Are you following Kittredge drawings or is this a Jim version. Hard to pass a comment without understanding the situation but you don’t want them to rust together and find you cant turn them when you need them. You can get away with a lot with good maintenance but maybe Vance can say what works best in that situation. Chs, Hugh

From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of kocpnt tds.net
Sent: Wednesday, 3 February 2010 12:39 p.m.

To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Lubrication

Hi Hugh,

These are not rotating shafts. They are rotating bel cranks which actuate drop weight latches, front and rear thruster orientation and soft ballast valves. Most only turn a 40 - 160 degrees.

Thank you for any input.

Best Regards,

Jim K

On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 3:25 PM, Hugh Fulton <hc.fulton@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Jim,

I would be very careful about steel to steel. What is the application? What speed are the shafts doing?

If you do go steel on steel then you need to have different hardness and very good grease lubrication. Slow rotation is not so bad but if you can use bronze, Aluminium, white-metal or plastic sleeves then go for it. Stainless on bronze no problem, Chs, Hugh

From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of kocpnt tds.net
Sent: Wednesday, 3 February 2010 8:45 a.m.

To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Lubrication

Hi All,

I've not seen this before and am hoping for some expereinced people to help.

I am doing final assembly of some rotating shafts. Some are carbon steel inside of carbon steel and some are Stainless shaft inside of bronze bushings.

I am not sure if never- seize or a good quality urea grease are better or possibly something that I have not thought of!

Thanks in advance,

Jim K

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