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RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST]Hydraulic locks



Thank you do you know a gentleman named Robert  Carew he had piloted PRV2 the few times it was in the water, I understand he is around or was a while ago he is supposed to have some pictures of the sub in the water, again thanks for your help

 

Brian V. Ryder

 

From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of vbra676539@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2009 7:49 PM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST]Hydraulic locks

 

Let me make a call. I'll get back to you on that.

Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: Brian V. Ryder <brian@subatlantic.com>
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Sat, Dec 19, 2009 5:01 pm
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST]Hydraulic locks

Vance thank you for your advice, I think I was more concerned with the weight and over engineered the mounting but with you comparison to a shackle it does make sense are there any drawings of the locks available for review, no sense in reinventing the wheel.

Again thanks for your help

 

Brian V. Ryder

 

From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of vbra676539@aol.com
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 8:20 PM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] RFC - Standard Thru-Hull Electrical Connector

 

Brian,

 

Three? Why so many? The Perrys with releasable pods used a centrally mounted hydraulic cylinder with a solid SS billet draw pin screwed onto the rod end. The billet rides in a sintered bronze bushing. The front and back pipe frames and pads you see in the photographs are there for the pressure hull to sit on, and to maintain alignment. Once the sub is off the deck, each pod is supported entirely on the release pin. It sounds odd to the layman, hanging a ton and a half off one pin like that, but have a look at any 5-ton shackle. That pin isn't much bigger than your finger.

 

Alternatively, the PC14 class used a forward mechanical release and an aft pivot. You could make that hydraulic easily enough. Either way, you would almost certainly do very well with just the one release cylinder. Our subs were slammed and banged plenty on deck, and we never had problems with the release pins

 

Luckily, no one ever had to jettison a pod. We brought some extra water home a time or two, but we did get home. I don't know how many dives the Deepworkers have made collectively, but I suspect it is a pretty high number and I have never heard of anyone dropping the undercarriage on one of them, either. That also is a mechanically operated release. One final note is that all of these units were built in the shop during fabrication, minimizing costs while maximizing QC.

 

Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: Brian V. Ryder <brian@subatlantic.com>
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Fri, Dec 18, 2009 7:38 pm
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] RFC - Standard Thru-Hull Electrical Connector

Hello everyone not to get off the thru hull discussions it makes for interesting reading I have another question for all you experienced submariner I am looking for a Hydraulic release pin to drop the new PRV2 battery pods  the pods are large 20” by 12’ and are made of steel just like the Perry pods (I thought about aluminum until the price came back 1090.00 dollars per foot) so steel it is, I think I could do it with 3 per side but I am having trouble sourcing them, also looking for an underwater telephone if anyone knows of a unit kicking around. The sub is coming along very nicely and I will be uploading pictures as we progress also thanks Jon for coming down. oh and we are also in the market for a hydraulic manipulator or parts and pieces

I can attest to the ABS price we were quoted 50k plus  the inspectors payroll and travel expenses I guess a blessing is expensive

 

Regards

Brian V. Ryder

 

From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Al Secor
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 6:29 PM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] RFC - Standard Thru-Hull Electrical Connector

 

I’m sure Carsten would!

 

Al

 


From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Jay K. Jeffries
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 5:14 PM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] RFC - Standard Thru-Hull Electrical Connector

 

Alec,

That is a great summary of the situation.  I think pins need to be defined one through four and what connects to a pin as most connectors are keyed to connect in only one orientation.

 

As an aside, does anyone know how many wires are involved to connect one of the Hummingbird sidescan transducer through hull?

R/Jay

 

 

From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Smyth, Alec
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 1:00 PM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] RFC - Standard Thru-Hull Electrical Connector

 

I'll attempt to summarize and respond to the various discussion items in one post. To summarize, of course there will be applications for all sorts of additional or different connectors for thrusters, lights, more advanced sonars, etc. All we are trying to standardize on here, however, is a basic connector for communications. Let's keep it simple. We just want to be able to communicate with or between PSUBS and if someone wants a sonar array, video cameras, etc. those simply go through whatever connectors they want to use. Those things are beyond the scope of this proposed standard.  

 

OK, I'll summarize.

 

1. What thread is it?

I just called Subconn to confirm, it is 7/16" x 20 UNF

 

2. Is there an off the shelf pipe coupling to screw into?

Not that I'm aware of, because this is a parallel thread whereas most pipe couplings use tapered threads. I did locate some straight thread fittings on McMaster. However they are not stainless and the diameter is insufficient for the o-ring seat. It is really simple to make your own. Just drill and tap a piece of 1" 316 round stock long enough to go through your hull and take a fillet weld on each side. If you want a more flexible yet harder-to-make solution, use a removable bulkhead. See the fifth photo from the top on my Snoopy project page for an example. If anyone wants the drawings for those, I'm happy to supply them. If anyone has a source of off-the-shelf female-threaded, thick-walled little cylinders in 316 of course let us know.

 

3. Can we accomodate different pin count connectors using the same hole?

The connectors with 2 through 5 contacts use the same thread (I didn't pick the 5 contact conductor because it's current capacity is too low for some of David's equipment). Beyond 5 conductors, the thread size increases so you would need a different hole. I don't think there's enough difference in diameters for an adapter. Plus, as these are parallel threads you would need an o-ring in the adapter, which complicates it a little. Off the shelf pipe adapters won't work due to their tapered threads. So... if you need additional connectors use either a multi-connector removeable bulkhead, or weld in a variety of threaded cylinders and screw blanks into the spares.  

 

4. Merits of plastic vs. metal

I have used both types for years. I agree with Vance's preference for metal, because I recently broke one of my plastic connectors. I'll admit it was purely my fault, I over-tightened it with a wrench when one is only supposed to hand-tighten only. Metal connectors like this one are less exposed to my stupidity. The one thing I disagree with Vance on is that plastic ones are dirt cheap. They were when I bought them years ago, but now I was quoted higher prices for those than for this one.

 

5. Need to agree on pin assignments, not just connectors

Excellent point. Let's make an executive decision: black and white for comms transducer, red and green for hydrophone. Unless I'm mistaken, polarity doesn't matter in either case so it's just the pair assignment that counts.

 

6. Don't we need 4 pins for comms?

No, I don't believe this applies. My assumption is that our comms are wireless. Wireless comms use the same transducer for both ingoing and outgoing signals. So long as we are on the same frequency, all divers and subs can hear each others' conversations. We should agree on a frequency, but that's immaterial to the connector choice. BTW Divelink is single frequency, but OTS has a choice of  several. As I understand it, one of the OTS channels coincides with Divelink, so we should all be able to converse if we adopt that one.

 

7. Is this ABS certifiable?

I'm not sure what ABS requirements are for certifying connectors. I do know however that this particular product line is Subconn's oldest and has been around for decades. It is surely used on certified subs.

 

8. What size is the O ring?

It's 1/2" ID, 5/8" OD. In other words, the seat for the connector has to be larger than 5/8". 

 

 


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From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of ShellyDalg@aol.com
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 10:43 AM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] RFC - Standard Thru-Hull Electrical Connector

Hi Guys.

Boy, I had a feeling this would get more complicated.

The additional ideas all sound pretty reasonable to me, and standardization will be necessary if we want to plug in a radio for the convention.

I don't think anyone wants to spend $50K doing it though.

Lets try to keep this simple.

As a minimum standard for this application, all we really need is "what size is the welded coupling" and we can screw what ever comes along into it.

If we don't use it, it just gets a hard plug with pookie.

I would suggest we make the coupling big enough to accomodate a multi pin plug. I favor a 1 inch coupling size only because it would be large enough to accept mostly any size. It's easy enough to add a reducer bushing into it and still leave enough room for multiple pins.

The proposed Subcon part looks fine for the convention radio, and even has two extra pins.

As for ABS cert.........much like what we already use as guidelines, it doesn't need to pass any tests but just be "up to the standards" of ABS.

Frank D.

 

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