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Vance thank you for your advice, I think I was more concerned
with the weight and over engineered the mounting but with you comparison to a shackle
it does make sense are there any drawings of the locks available for review, no
sense in reinventing the wheel. Again thanks for your help Brian V. Ryder From:
owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of vbra676539@aol.com Brian, Three? Why so many? The Perrys with releasable pods used a
centrally mounted hydraulic cylinder with a solid SS billet draw pin screwed
onto the rod end. The billet rides in a sintered bronze bushing. The front
and back pipe frames and pads you see in the photographs are there for the
pressure hull to sit on, and to maintain alignment. Once the sub is off the
deck, each pod is supported entirely on the release pin. It sounds odd to
the layman, hanging a ton and a half off one pin like that, but have a look at
any 5-ton shackle. That pin isn't much bigger than your finger. Alternatively, the PC14 class used a forward mechanical release
and an aft pivot. You could make that hydraulic easily enough. Either way, you
would almost certainly do very well with just the one release cylinder.
Our subs were slammed and banged plenty on deck, and we never had problems with
the release pins Luckily, no one ever had to jettison a pod. We brought some
extra water home a time or two, but we did get home. I don't know how many
dives the Deepworkers have made collectively, but I suspect it is a pretty high
number and I have never heard of anyone dropping the undercarriage on one of
them, either. That also is a mechanically operated release. One final note is
that all of these units were built in the shop during fabrication, minimizing
costs while maximizing QC. Vance -----Original Message----- Hello everyone not to get off the thru hull discussions it makes
for interesting reading I have another question for all you experienced
submariner I am looking for a Hydraulic release pin to drop the new PRV2
battery pods the pods are large 20” by 12’ and are made of steel just
like the Perry pods (I thought about aluminum until the price came back 1090.00
dollars per foot) so steel it is, I think I could do it with 3 per side but I
am having trouble sourcing them, also looking for an underwater telephone if
anyone knows of a unit kicking around. The sub is coming along very nicely and
I will be uploading pictures as we progress also thanks Jon for coming down. oh
and we are also in the market for a hydraulic manipulator or parts and pieces I can attest to the ABS price we were quoted 50k plus the
inspectors payroll and travel expenses I guess a blessing is expensive Regards Brian V. Ryder From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf
Of Al Secor I’m sure Carsten would! Al From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf
Of Jay K. Jeffries Alec, That is a great summary of the situation. I think pins
need to be defined one through four and what connects to a pin as most
connectors are keyed to connect in only one orientation. As an aside, does anyone know how many wires are involved to
connect one of the Hummingbird sidescan transducer through hull? R/Jay From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf
Of Smyth, Alec I'll attempt to summarize and respond to the various discussion
items in one post. To summarize, of course there will be applications for all
sorts of additional or different connectors for thrusters, lights, more
advanced sonars, etc. All we are trying to standardize on here,
however, is a basic connector for communications. Let's keep it simple. We
just want to be able to communicate with or between PSUBS and if
someone wants a sonar array, video cameras, etc. those simply go through
whatever connectors they want to use. Those things are beyond the scope of this
proposed standard. OK, I'll summarize. 1. What thread is it? I just called Subconn to confirm, it is 7/16" x 20 UNF 2. Is there an off the shelf pipe coupling to screw into? Not that I'm aware of, because this is a parallel thread whereas
most pipe couplings use tapered threads. I did locate some straight thread
fittings on McMaster. However they are not stainless and the diameter is
insufficient for the o-ring seat. It is really simple to make your own.
Just drill and tap a piece of 1" 316 round stock long
enough to go through your hull and take a fillet weld on each side.
If you want a more flexible yet harder-to-make solution, use a removable
bulkhead. See the fifth photo from the top on my Snoopy project page for an
example. If anyone wants the drawings for those, I'm happy to supply them.
If anyone has a source of off-the-shelf female-threaded, thick-walled little
cylinders in 316 of course let us know. 3. Can we accomodate different pin count
connectors using the same hole? The connectors with 2 through 5 contacts use the same thread (I
didn't pick the 5 contact conductor because it's current capacity is too low
for some of David's equipment). Beyond 5 conductors, the thread
size increases so you would need a different hole. I don't think
there's enough difference in diameters for an adapter. Plus, as these are
parallel threads you would need an o-ring in the adapter, which complicates it
a little. Off the shelf pipe adapters won't work due to their tapered threads.
So... if you need additional connectors use either a multi-connector
removeable bulkhead, or weld in a variety of threaded cylinders and screw
blanks into the spares. 4. Merits of plastic vs. metal I have used both types for years. I agree with Vance's preference
for metal, because I recently broke one of my plastic
connectors. I'll admit it was purely my fault, I over-tightened it with a wrench
when one is only supposed to hand-tighten only. Metal connectors like this one
are less exposed to my stupidity. The one thing I disagree with Vance
on is that plastic ones are dirt cheap. They were when I bought them years ago,
but now I was quoted higher prices for those than for this one. 5. Need to agree on pin assignments, not just connectors Excellent point. Let's make an executive decision: black
and white for comms transducer, red and green for hydrophone. Unless I'm
mistaken, polarity doesn't matter in either case so it's just the pair
assignment that counts. 6. Don't we need 4 pins for comms? No, I don't believe this applies. My assumption is that our
comms are wireless. Wireless comms use the same transducer for both
ingoing and outgoing signals. So long as we are on the same frequency, all
divers and subs can hear each others' conversations. We should agree on a
frequency, but that's immaterial to the connector
choice. BTW Divelink is single frequency, but OTS has a choice of
several. As I understand it, one of the OTS channels coincides with
Divelink, so we should all be able to converse if we adopt that one. 7. Is this ABS certifiable? I'm not sure what ABS requirements are for certifying connectors.
I do know however that this particular product line is Subconn's oldest and has
been around for decades. It is surely used on certified subs. 8. What size is the O ring? It's 1/2" ID, 5/8" OD. In other words, the seat for
the connector has to be larger than 5/8".
From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf
Of ShellyDalg@aol.com Hi Guys. Boy, I had a feeling this would get more complicated. The additional ideas all sound pretty reasonable to me, and
standardization will be necessary if we want to plug in a radio for the
convention. I don't think anyone wants to spend $50K doing it though. Lets try to keep this simple. As a minimum standard for this application, all we really need is
"what size is the welded coupling" and we can screw what ever comes
along into it. If we don't use it, it just gets a hard plug with pookie. I would suggest we make the coupling big enough to accomodate a
multi pin plug. I favor a 1 inch coupling size only because it would be large
enough to accept mostly any size. It's easy enough to add a reducer bushing
into it and still leave enough room for multiple pins. The proposed Subcon part looks fine for the convention radio, and
even has two extra pins. As for ABS cert.........much like what we already use as
guidelines, it doesn't need to pass any tests but just be "up to the
standards" of ABS. Frank D. No virus found in this incoming message. |