[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hello; Design; Materials; Thanks



T.C,
With regard to fiber glass it actually makes your sub heavier, as you have to go 4x as thick as
steel to get the same strength. This makes the displacement larger & you have to add more weight to sink.
Regards Alan 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 6:13 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hello; Design; Materials; Thanks

Hi TC. Because I've used a lot of it in my sub, I'd go with fiberglass for a shallow ambient sub.  It's real easy to do once you get the hang of it. Pound for pound it's about the strongest, never gets rusty, is light weight for a boat sized object, and is easy to patch or modify later.
For attachments like thru-hulls it's very easy to bond metal fittings into it. For a shallow sub you could even use schedule 80 PVC fittings for many systems not requiring high pressure.
There are a slew of web sites that can give you strength yields on different thicknesses of FRP but my favorite characteristic is the "never rust" aspect.
It's the easiest material to form into sleek shapes too.
Take a look at my pictures on the psub site and there's a pic of the foam mold I used for some fiberglass work. It was incredibly cheap to make the mold, just required a lot of time hand sanding.
I'm actually surprised we haven't seen more shallow subs being built. The cost of a dry ambient is probably 2/3 of a shallow 1 atmosphere sub capable of say 60 to 100 feet max.
There are some things you need either way. Batteries, motors, scuba tanks, gages, plumbing, and lots others. Depending on size, a 1 ATM sub with a small pressure hull can be pretty economical.
I think the average K boat runs about $25K to build the basics.
Frank D.