Glen, I would concur with Frank concerning placing the pistons on the outside (believe they are nitrogen-filled), corrosion and the elements will mess them up quick…this is why they put them inside of the car. Another issue for you to consider as Frank eludes to is that anything placed in the sail will just make things tighter on entry and exit, especially if you need to make an emergency exit. You don’t want to snag on anything while trying to get out of a flooded sub. Simple is always better. R/Jay Resepectfully, Jay K. Jeffries Andros Is., Bahamas Save the whales, collect the whole set. From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of ShellyDalg@aol.com Hi Glen. No, I haven't cut the holes in the bottom of my MBT's. Once all the welding is done, I'll pressure test them using the air input/output fitting with a "T" and a gage. If the pressure holds for 24 hours there's no leaks. If it leaks I'll spray soapy water on the welds and find the holes. Drill them out and re-weld. I have no battery pods. The batteries ( 14 ) are inside down low and each set of 3 is inside a stainless 12 gage box with a gasket and lid. Rubber grommets where the cables exit. Not really water "proof" but pretty much sealed up. To charge them, I'll open the lids and have a fan sucking the air out of the sub to dissipate any gas build-up. On the gas shocks, I would consider putting them inside. Anything outside gets salt water and pressure applied, increasing maintenance. If a device needs to be outside , well OK, but if it can be avoided it seems logical to put it inside. I prefer exterior springs because it keeps the hatch opening clear but you may be able to mount them at the perimeter of the flange inside so they don't take up much room. The thing is ( to me ) that anything outside requires extra measures to protect it from pressure, collision, and corrosion. If it can possibly be located inside, it's subject to only the one atmosphere of the cabin, doesn't get wet ( well maybe a little ) and can be reached while submerged if it develops a problem. I'll be carrying some extra scuba tanks outside but the main air tanks will be inside. The only things outside are the 4 motors, 4 actuators for rudder and dive planes, and whatever lights I add later. For now I have a location molded into the side dive planes for mounting two battery operated dive lights ( like flash lights ) and they will be switched on before each dive. No thru-hulls or wires, just replace the Duracells when the batteries get old. They won't be real bright so I will be adding some serious lights later with thru-hulls and wiring. I will be adding a video "periscope" to the hatch but again, it will be contained in a housing that connects to the main cabin. Dry and one atmosphere. If it springs a leak I'll pull the wires and close the valve leading to the camera housing. I'll keep a Hi-Res video camera inside to shoot video through the windows, so the rotating "periscope" camera will be for looking forward and around with the image on a small screen just above the two upper windows. Frank D. |