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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Cast dome cost



Hi FrankD
I have booked a large lathe for tomorrow to cut the groove the way you said with a dovetail makes sense ,I faced my C.T ring today the stainless looks good maybe my next build will be completely 316 .I ordered that book looking forward to reading it.As for my hatch I was hoping to slot the hinge pivot to allow the 2rings to mate evenly with each other Brents suggestion of the gas filled cylinders for assisting with opening and closing could possibly made out of 316SS and fixed on the outside instead of springs, I wonder what gas they use possibly nitrogen.
have you already made holes in the bottom of your MBT's and if you have did you test them for leaks with compressed air before you did when I built my VBT I done this and was astonished to find a pinhole it really burst my bubble I thought my welds were perfect I am planning on doing this with my battery pods as well as connect a extra ball valve and gauge to the outer thread of the flood valve barrel nipple and connect my trucks carburetors air intake which should give me some serious vacuum until the trucks engine dies at which time I plan to close the ball valve and check for leaks if the gauge drops over a period then I know I have a leak obviously the real test will be in the water .
 
Any thoughts will be appreatiated.
All the best
Glen SA
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, September 03, 2009 6:51 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Cast dome cost

Hi Glen. The 1/4 inch gasket is the most common, and the "stick-out" sounds right.
Remember that when the hatch is closed, water under pressure is trying to force that rubber into a crack between the two metal flanges. As the depth and pressure increases the crack gets smaller.
   The flat gasket simply won't work. The water pressure is trying to force water "past" the gasket above and below or between the rubber and the metal. It WILL leak. Frank D. 



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