[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Gel Coat Type for Depth



Brian,
 
Yes,  I put plenty on and rub it in a bit, to make sure. I like the PVA better since it smells better. ;} But I've done both, and they work like a charm. I'm a old sheet rock taper and texture guy, so I hate to put on a bunch of extra material just so I can later use a metal grader to remove the gummy surface, to get down to the hard stuff.  This way I can use my pretty flexible putty knife, and put on nice thin coats of resin or filler to clean up areas.

Regards,
Szybowski



 
From: ojaivalleybeefarm@dslextreme.com
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Gel Coat Type for Depth
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 08:21:51 -0700

Brent,
           Do you dust it on the outside of the surface when it's tacky?
 
Brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org]On Behalf Of Brent Hartwig
Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2009 12:19 AM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Gel Coat Type for Depth

Howdy Frank,
 
Cool, sounds like we are at the same stage on some thing.  I'm just about ready to put a couple coats of gel coat on my FRP MBT's that I'll be using for plug molds.  Are you using laminating gel coat polyester resin?    One trick I've learn from some old pros is to apply a coat of PVA mold release or baby powder to filler, and other resin coats after they kick for a bit.   This allows them to cure out much better, so you don't gum up you sandpaper later. It works wonders on Bondo. Then after 24 to 48 hours (the longer the better). You just wash the PVA or baby powder off and sand the way you want to.  You can spray the PVA on if you wish.
 
Brent

Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 11:04 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Antipodes/XPC15/PC-1501

Hi Brent. I've enjoyed the Seamagine web site.
    Testing will prove if my controls design will be usable.
The box will be fairly small  ( hoping for 4"X 6" )with just 4 speed dials and three rocker switches. I'm hoping it will be fairly easy to manipulate the controls using just the two types...dial and switch.
The speed control dials will usually be just set at a given speed, unless precise positioning is needed. Each dial has forward/reverse with the control circuit providing the step down.
Each of the 4 motors have their own dial so sharp turns or spinning on axis should be possible.
The three rocker switches controlling dive planes and rudders should be fairly easy. Not quite as natural as a steering wheel, or maybe a joy stick, but very compact and requires just a finger to steer left right or set dive plane angle. The momentary switch and electrical linear actuators act to maintain the position until the rocker switch is pressed again.
I haven't figured out yet how I will monitor the actual rudder and dive plane position relative to "center" but I think some actuators have a potentiometer built in that could send a position signal. Just gotta figure out how to interpret that signal into a display that's simple to maintain and easy to read.
Put another color coat on the back fairing today. Startin' to get real shiny!
Frank D.