RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Phil's 'Joy' Treatment

[Brent Hartwig <brenthartwig@hotmail.com>]

What if I don't wanna go that deep in my duck tape submarino. ;}
 
If you don't want to have a chance of being in deep water, just stay away from it, right.   
 
Of course I think Noah tried that trick also.
 
Who am I to talk, I'm building a submarine in a hay field, waiting for a flood to be able to use it.
 
"Amateurs built the ark, professionals built the Titanic." 
 
Of course some would say Noah had some pro help, and wood tends to float a touch better then steel if a hole comes up and you have not over loaded you boat with Spanish gold or the like.


Cheers,
Szybowski



 

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To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Phil's 'Joy' Treatment
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 21:15:16 -0400
From: vbra676539@aol.com

The little bubbles on the exterior compress very quickly.

Vance


-----Original Message-----
From: Brent Hartwig <brenthartwig@hotmail.com>
To: PSUBSorg <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Sat, Aug 22, 2009 8:48 pm
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Phil's 'Joy' Treatment

Hi Phil,
 
That's a very useful tip. I tried it on my acrylic dome. And would you believe it, it worked like a champ. ;}    I see I need to learn the knack.
 
Now for the other side of the coin/window.  How do you deal with the fine bubbles on the exterior surface?
 
 I had done some test on a glass aquarium with Rain-X, and it worked great on that. But I've since learned that product isn't good for the acrylic.  I was always messing with those pesky bubbles in glass and acrylic aquariums.  A wind shield whippier would do the trick. But that would enta il more thru hulls and parts. Using a water jet might work also.
 
I just figured the surge action of your subs being craned in and out of rough water would take care of most of it.
 
 
Regards,
Szybowski



 

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From: phil@philnuytten.com
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Clogged O2 orifices
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 22:07:38 -0700

Hi, Alan:

We use a light coating of 'Joy' household detergent soap - put on with a dampened pad of Kleenex - it acts as a wetting agent and the moisture lays as an even, clear sheet that is virtually invisible ojn the acrylic- since the soap breaks the surface tension that causes the minute 'droplets' to act as a 'fog'.

For you diving-helmet wearers, it's also one of the few surfactants that I know, that prevents fogging on polycarbonates (Lexan, etc .)

 

It's a bit of a knack to get just the right amount on - but it works like a champ!

Phil

P,S. consider using an in-line scintered filter before your steady-flo orifice 

----- Original Message -----

From: Alan James

To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org

Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 9:38 PM

Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Clogged O2 orifices

Hi Jay,

In your coments on the "nitrox ambient" you mentioned the following.

 If you use a constant flow of oxygen, optimally this should be equivalent to your rate of consumption of O₂ and is usually accomplished with an orifice.  The problem is that the size of the orifice is very small and can be clogged easily.  Rebreathers that in the past have used this method have been plagued with clogged orifices and the Navy had numerous warnings concerning this issue in their course “Principles of Navy Diving”.

Does this apply to the medical O2 regulators used in Psubs, they regulate a constant pressure through a small orifice.

Also Phil if you're out there- Do you  use an anti fogging  product  on the acrylic of your newt suit. If so what is it & is it removed regularly & with what.

I don't want to put any product on thats going to affect the acrylic.

Thanks Alan

 

 

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