|
Yes, Teledyne Impulse. I got mine
from the office in San Diego CA. The ones I use are the rubber molded VSK / VMK
with 2 conductors. I think they are rated for 12,000 ft. Phone # 1-800-327-0971 Greg From: owner- Hi Greg, Is that Teledyne
impulse for those or someone else. Who is the best place to get them
from? Thks for the lead. Chs Hugh From: owner- Hello Frank, Sounds like a great idea. A potted
stainless reducer with a ball valve sounds like it would work great. My only other comment though, would be
that electrical penetrators are one of the few parts for subs that are readily
available off the shelf and not very expensive. Impulse has some excellent ones
with #6 and #8 conductors that, if I remember correctly, are less than $100
each. They also have the pluggable cable for the outboard side in any length
you want. It’s a big time saver, is compact and looks great. But if you’re the type that likes to
build it yourself then I think your idea is good. Greg C From: owner- Work on my sub has been going steady
lately, and I was getting ready to start wacking holes in the hull for the
wires. Well, I was re-thinking my simplified
thru-hull design and decided it was a maintenance nightmare. My latest solution is this........ Still use the simple stainless nipple welded
into the hull, with a ball valve threaded onto the inside. ( You know me.....EVERY hole gets a ball
valve.) Here's the new part.....instead of
welding shoulder stops into the inside of the nipple, and potting the conductor
rods in epoxy in the welded nipple, put the rods and epoxy in a bell reducer,
and screw it onto the outside of the nipple. This makes the epoxy plug a wedge
shape so it can't be forced into the smaller diameter nipple, and it makes the
task of potting with the rods in place much simpler as it can be done on the
bench, rather than trying to glue the rods into the nipple that's already
welded into the hull. The biggest advantage here is that
if there's a problem with the assembly, it can be unscrewed and replaced with
just a pipe wrench, rather than having to drill out and re-pot the welded
nipple. Maintenance and repair are a couple of
the biggest factors when I'm pondering how to accomplish something. I don't
want to be far afield on a dive trip and have a simple part break and take days
to fix. This thru-hull design makes it simpler to
do the first time, and replacement MUCH faster and easier. This way I can carry
spare potted reducers and affect a repair in minutes rather than taking all day
to drill, re-pot with epoxy, and wait for it all to cure before going back out. Anybody got any thoughts on this newest
design? I welcome criticism. Frank D. |