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Hi Greg, Is that Teledyne impulse for those or someone else. Who is the
best place to get them from? Thks for the lead. Chs Hugh From:
owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Greg
Cottrell Hello Frank, Sounds like a great idea. A potted stainless reducer with a ball
valve sounds like it would work great. My only other comment though, would be that electrical penetrators
are one of the few parts for subs that are readily available off the shelf and
not very expensive. Impulse has some excellent ones with #6 and #8 conductors
that, if I remember correctly, are less than $100 each. They also have the
pluggable cable for the outboard side in any length you want. It’s a big time
saver, is compact and looks great. But if you’re the type that likes to build it yourself then I think
your idea is good. Greg C From:
owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of ShellyDalg@aol.com Work on my sub has been going steady lately, and I was getting
ready to start wacking holes in the hull for the wires. Well, I was re-thinking my simplified thru-hull design and decided
it was a maintenance nightmare. My latest solution is this........ Still use the simple stainless nipple welded into the hull, with a
ball valve threaded onto the inside. ( You know me.....EVERY hole gets a ball valve.) Here's the new part.....instead of welding shoulder stops into the
inside of the nipple, and potting the conductor rods in epoxy in the welded
nipple, put the rods and epoxy in a bell reducer, and screw it onto the outside
of the nipple. This makes the epoxy plug a wedge shape so it can't be forced
into the smaller diameter nipple, and it makes the task of potting with the
rods in place much simpler as it can be done on the bench, rather than trying
to glue the rods into the nipple that's already welded into the hull. The biggest advantage here is that if there's a problem with
the assembly, it can be unscrewed and replaced with just a pipe wrench, rather
than having to drill out and re-pot the welded nipple. Maintenance and repair are a couple of the biggest factors when
I'm pondering how to accomplish something. I don't want to be far afield on a
dive trip and have a simple part break and take days to fix. This thru-hull design makes it simpler to do the first time, and
replacement MUCH faster and easier. This way I can carry spare potted reducers
and affect a repair in minutes rather than taking all day to drill, re-pot with
epoxy, and wait for it all to cure before going back out. Anybody got any thoughts on this newest design? I welcome
criticism. Frank D. |