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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] stick welding 101
Alec, Frank,
Thanks for the info. I'll be joining a welding class in August.
Jon
ShellyDalg@aol.com wrote:
Jon. If the hull is 70 series ( AS 516-70 ) then you use 7018 on
everything. Filler metal is always to match the base metal. I suggest
TIG the root, stick the filler, and TIG the cover pass. Then back
grind the inside and TIG that with a cover pass. ALL of it with 70
series rod. The process of laying down small overlapping TIG beads
makes a very strong and clean weld, without applying a ton of heat to
the joint being welded. That reduces stress build-up, and it's much
easier to make really clean welds. Bad thing is, it's slow and you
need cover gas too ( ARGON ) which runs about $125 a bottle. Still,
the weld quality is the best.
When you stick weld the filler pass, make sure you clean the
start/stop REAL good, and when you lay down the TIG cover pass, most
inclusions or weld defects from the stick weld pass will show up as a
little hole or bubble. Stop welding, and grind or drill out the
inclusion down to nice clean steel.
It's a good idea to get a stainless wire wheel on your little
grinder and keep it right next to you so you can clean out the
start/stop while it's still hot. Start the stick "ARC" a little before
the end of the previous bead, then weld over the end and down into the
groove so the molten puddle flows and fuses with the previous bead.
Any wobbling or nasty stuff from starting the arc will be on top of
the previous bead and is easy to buff off with the grinder before you
start the TIG cover passes. Mostly just practice. Although I've been
welding for over 40 years, I still run a practice bead on scrap every
time I get ready to weld stuff. It helps me focus on making a good
weld, and if there's any adjustment with the machine or my position or
what ever, better to get that all fixed on the scrap, and get your
mind focused on the welding to be done.
Frank D.
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