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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Push Pull Cable Rudder Control Means



Yeah some good ideas Frank.
You've been getting me thinking.
If we use bellows on the piston & fill them with oil we won't get any water in. (your original plan)
However they would become quite bulbous on the return stroke. I'll buy some, play around &
see how it works.
I'd thought of a small bellows for the oil that is pushed out of the casing when the piston retracts.
I'll measure what displacement there is & see whats needed.
Like the tube idea.
Mine was easy to pull apart & needs to be done for the drilling. Also the small sealed motor I will inject as much
oil into as possible before I close the actuator up & fill it with oil.
Regards Alan 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2009 5:00 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Push Pull Cable Rudder Control Means

Hi Alan. The actuator assembly sounds pretty typical. As for the speed of stroke, they are pretty slow for sure. Oil compensating should be fairly easy and definitely needed if more than 15 feet or so of depth is anticipated. My thought on this is......water is heavier than oil, and oil is heavier than air. By making reservoirs part of the envelope, natural separation of the three should be possible using just gravity.
If a small bubble is still inside the actuator, it should eventually work it's way to the upper reservoir. If a little water enters the envelope, it should go to the low spot.
So......if we take the actuator, encase it in a stout fiberglass casing, bond into the casing some threaded PVC female couplings, one on top and one on bottom. Screw into these PVC fittings some hose barb adapters, attach some clear flexible tubing, and plug the ends with threaded PVC fittings and a plug.
This creates the oil reservoirs, above and below the actuator. Now, as the actuator rod extends, a vacuum is created in the FRP casing, and the oil in the reservoirs will fill that space as the flexible tubes compress. The reservoirs would need to be large enough and flexible enough to squeeze whether there was additional outside pressure or not. I'm thinking maybe 1 inch diameter and 6 inches long for each.
With the actuator movement pushing the oil back and forth, any small air bubbles should work their way to the top of the upper reservoir in short order. Like wise, if a small amount of water got in there, it would eventually settle at the bottom of the lower reservoir. Hopefully before it did any damage. With the clear tubing reservoirs, we can see if there's air bubbles or water at a glance, and drain or top off as required.
This was my original thoughts on the Minnkota compensation too. I'm just not sure we need to take these devices apart. Air bubbles will find their way to the top if we give them a path, a little agitation, and time.
Gotta make a method to "top it off" that's easy so maintenance is minimal.
Now, I'll admit, I may be full of S#&*  here as I've never actually done it yet, so any criticism is welcome and appreciated. Frank D.