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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Push Pull Cable Rudder Control Means



I've got 9 linear actuators ( 4 different manufacturers) spread around our sub. Seven are wrapped in glass and epoxy and 2 are housed in a box and drive push pull cables.  You might want to use push-pull cables if the actuator is going to be in the way around your dive planes.  However my setup with the cables has a lot of play in it. I can easily move the dive planes 15 degrees due to the slop in the actuator mounts and cable connections. Hopefully that will not be enough to matter.

This photo is one of the actuators that controls the trim tank vent and behind that is one of the actuators for the legs / landing gear.
http://www.submarineboat.com/images/submarine/forward_trim_compartment.JPG

None of these actuators had decent lip seals.  I added better lip seals to the really bad ones, but my stuff is all ambient compensated with air.  And just in case, I have all of them facing downward so a little leak will not get to the motor.  I like the bellows idea.  I'm going to steal that if I end up having to replace one or more of these.   For your 1 atm, l'd worry about the pressure forcing the bellows to drag too much and wear against the shaft.  Could you oil compensate them in addition to the bellows?  The bellows would then protect the inner shaft when it's exposed and the lip seal quality would not matter.

Best of Luck
Doug J




-----Original Message-----
From: ShellyDalg@aol.com
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Tue, Jun 23, 2009 9:20 pm
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Push Pull Cable Rudder Control Means

I may be way off base on this, but I'm going to try and make electric linear screw actuators control the rudders and dive planes. I found some from "Firgelli" in the UK that should work. They have 150 pounds of push, operate on 12 volts, and are nice and compact. The plus here is that just an electrical thru-hull and two wires is needed for each one. No cables, linkages, block V seals, or other possible leakers.
I'm going to use simple rocker switches to drive the actuators in and out. They have built in limit switches and indicators, so should be able to tell where they are. The down side is they won't "fail" in a set position like pointing "up" for the dive planes or center for the rudders.
The idea is to encase them in a stout FRP casing molded tight to the actuator body, and use a rubber bellows sealed with hose clamps and poly-urethane coating for the extendable shaft.
These actuators are so compact that the aluminum body and stainless rod don't leave much air space, so I'm hoping with a little experimentation I can get them sealed up. Here's a pic of the actuators. They run about $100 each. Frank D.
http://www.frappr.com/?a=viewphoto&id=1578526&pid=10875159&myphotos=1