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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side Thruster Options/ Noise



Okay, that makes sense. Thanks, Emile.

It looks like a lot of fit up work is going on with the KSS. Those tanks have quite a few pieces. It's going to be a beauty, though. No doubt.

Vance


-----Original Message-----
From: Emile van Essen <emile@airesearch.nl>
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Mon, Jun 15, 2009 10:31 am
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side Thruster Options/ Noise

Vance,
 
An ORIGINAL trolling motor has no El. Noise. At least the one we tested. The Rhino’s has also a EMC shield on the plastic. And the shat is from ss.
 
The problem is that we take a saw and cut the thing .. Then the unschielded wire is a perfect antenna…
 
Emile
 

Van: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] Namens vbra676539@aol.com
Verzonden: zaterdag 13 juni 2009 16:33
Aan: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Onderwerp: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side Thruster Options
 
Carsten,

Why is that? Fishing boats in the US use Minn Kotas and all sorts of elaborate fish finders and sonars, and use them together without problem. It would have to be leakage through the grounding system, yes? I wonder if there is any way to isolate the motor controls more effectively.

Vance


-----Original Message-----
From: MerlinSub@t-online.de
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Sat, Jun 13, 2009 6:39 am
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side Thruster Options
 
Please note: The PM controller of minnkota do no work with any sonar.
You get only a huge amount of snow on your screen..
 
And a sub without sonar is nearly blind. 
 
VBR carsten
 
"ronleonard@shaw.ca" <ronleonard@shaw.ca> schrieb:
> A couple of notes:
> The only difference between saltwater Minn Kotas and the standard Minn Kotas
> is the addition of a zinc prop nut to the saltwater motors. Save a few bucks
> and go for the fresh water motors and the zinc nuts are available from any
> Minn Kota parts depot and are cheap.
> 
> Minn Kotas can be purchased as just the motor, prop, and shaft, again from
> the parts desk. If you can't get find them anywhere, I have an account with
> Minn Kota and can help you out.
> 
> If you want info on what we use for motor controllers, drop me a line
> directly.
> 
> Ron
> ronleonard@shaw.ca
> 
> 
> On Thu, Jun 11, 2009 at 4:23 PM, Brent Hartwig <brenthartwig@hotmail.com>wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> > Greetings ** James,
> >
> > I'm also pl
anning on installing small mostly off the shelf thrusters on the
> > sides of my K boat to reduce drag and simplify things.  I've been planning
> > on using 36 volt Minn Kota 101 saltwater thrusters, like Frank, and I
> > believe Vance are using and oil compensate them.  Last I checked those
> > thruster were running $250 each with the speed controllers going for  $150
> > each.
> >
> > I'll have to check my notes, but I believe Karl Stanley is using 6 of the
> > 36 volt Minn Kota saltwater thruster that he has oil compensated, and has
> > used down to 2500 fsw.  Two for vertical thrust and four in the stern. Are
> > you expecting to go that deep James. ;}
> >
> > I like the idea of using the existing flexible shafts on some motors that
> > Alec mentioned. I expected that I would clamp mine on in a similar manor as
> > Frank has done, since I'm not sure of the long term saltwater durability of
> > my favorite brand of duck tape.
> >
> > I see the need to beef up the side thru hulls, and was planning on looking
> > closely at how Dan beefed his up. With the new tangle guard configuration
> > I'm planning, I don't expect the thrusters will sustain any real damage
> > unless the Euronaut or the like plays to rough with my sub.
> > *
> > Regards,*
> > *Szybowski*
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Subdate
> > > Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 17:46:21 -0400
> > > From: Alec.Smyth@compuware.com
> > > To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> > >
>
; > > Hi James,
> > >
> > > 1. Do people just buy the standard Minn Kota outboard motor complete
> > > with the bracket, leg, controls, handle, battery etc and just modify the
> > > motor part? or can you get just the motor and prop on its own?
> > >
> > > AS: You can buy just the parts you need cheaper than the whole thing, I
> > > recommend www.trollingmotorparts.com.
> > >
> > >
> > > 2. Whats the through hull design? A straight forward twin O ring
> > > through hull on the outboard shaft?
> > >
> > > AS: I would not go with the standard pipe because it just isn't strong.
> > > In fact some motors come with plastic pipes designed to be flexible so
> > > the shaft bends when you hit something, rather than break off. On the
> > >
side thrusters, I've got heavy through-hulls. I did use the stock pipe
> > > on the stern thruster, because that one doesn't go through the hull. The
> > > through-hulls are just a SS bar stock with an external shoulder to
> > > prevent the thing from being pushed in, and bored to whatever minimum
> > > inside diameter you need for the cables and potting. Do not just pot the
> > > cables, you have to put in solid conductors so the pressure doesn't wick
> > > along the cable strands. I'd recommend machining some vice flats on the
> > >
through-hull too, for the day you need to unscrew a thruster that's been
> > > on there a few years.
> > >
> > >
> > > 3. Compensation. Oil, ambient air pressure regulator?
> > > I've had both but like oil compensation the best because it's the
> > > simplest (not a single moving part). I just changed the oil a couple of
> > > days ago. I expected it to be laden with carbon deposits, but it came
> >=2
0> out looking like new despite being in there for 4 years. Admittedly I
> > > put very few hours on the sub, but it still surprised me that the oil
> > > came out looking as clear as the day it went in. And yes, it WAS oil not
> > > water that came out...
> > >
> > > :)
> > >
> > > Alec
> >
> >
> 
 
 
 
 
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