Vance, An ORIGINAL trolling
motor has no El. Noise. At least the one we tested. The Rhino’s has also a EMC
shield on the plastic. And the shat is from ss. The problem is that we
take a saw and cut the thing .. Then the unschielded wire is a perfect antenna… Emile Van:
owner- Carsten,
Please note: The PM controller of minnkota do no work with any sonar. You get only a huge amount of snow on your screen..
And a sub without sonar is nearly blind.
VBR carsten
"ronleonard@shaw.ca" <ronleonard@shaw.ca> schrieb: > A couple of notes: > The only difference between saltwater Minn Kotas and the standard Minn Kotas > is the addition of a zinc prop nut to the saltwater motors. Save a few bucks > and go for the fresh water motors and the zinc nuts are available from any > Minn Kota parts depot and are cheap. > > Minn Kotas can be purchased as just the motor, prop, and shaft, again from > the parts desk. If you can't get find them anywhere, I have an account with > Minn Kota and can help you out. > > If you want info on what we use for motor controllers, drop me a line > directly. > > Ron > ronleonard@shaw.ca > > > On Thu, Jun 11, 2009 at 4:23 PM, Brent Hartwig <brenthartwig@hotmail.com>wrote: > > > > > > > Greetings ** James, > > > > I'm also planning on installing small mostly off the shelf thrusters on the > > sides of my K boat to reduce drag and simplify things. I've been planning > > on using 36 volt Minn Kota 101 saltwater thrusters, like Frank, and I > > believe Vance are using and oil compensate them. Last I checked those > > thruster were running $250 each with the speed controllers going for $150 > > each. > > > > I'll have to check my notes, but I believe Karl Stanley is using 6 of the > > 36 volt Minn Kota saltwater thruster that he has oil compensated, and has > > used down to 2500 fsw. Two for vertical thrust and four in the stern. Are > > you expecting to go that deep James. ;} > > > > I like the idea of using the existing flexible shafts on some motors that > > > > Frank has done, since I'm not sure of the long term saltwater durability of > > my favorite brand of duck tape. > > > > I see the need to beef up the side thru hulls, and was planning on looking > > closely at how Dan beefed his up. With the new tangle guard configuration > > I'm planning, I don't expect the thrusters will sustain any real damage > > unless the Euronaut or the like plays to rough with my sub. > > * > > Regards,* > > *Szybowski* > > > > > > > > > > > Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Subdate > > > Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 17:46:21 -0400 > > > From: Alec.Smyth@compuware.com > > > To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org > > > > > > Hi James, > > > > > > 1. Do people just buy the standard Minn Kota outboard motor complete > > > with the bracket, leg, controls, handle, battery etc and just modify the > > > motor part? or can you get just the motor and prop on its own? > > > > > > AS: You can buy just the parts you need cheaper than the whole thing, I > > > recommend www.trollingmotorparts.com. > > > > > > > > > 2. Whats the through hull design? A straight forward twin O ring > > > through hull on the outboard shaft? > > > > > > AS: I would not go with the standard pipe because it just isn't strong. > > > In fact some motors come with plastic pipes designed to be flexible so > > > the shaft bends when you hit something, rather than break off. On the > > > side thrusters, I've got heavy through-hulls. I did use the stock pipe > > > on the stern thruster, because that one doesn't go through the hull. The > > > through-hulls are just a SS bar stock with an external shoulder to > > > prevent the thing from being pushed in, and bored to whatever minimum > > > inside diameter you need for the cables and potting. Do not just pot the > > > cables, you have to put in solid conductors so the pressure doesn't wick > > > along the cable strands. I'd recommend machining some vice flats on the > > > through-hull too, for the day you need to unscrew a thruster that's been > > > on there a few years. > > > > > > > > > 3. Compensation. Oil, ambient air pressure regulator? > > > I've had both but like oil compensation the best because it's the > > > simplest (not a single moving part). I just changed the oil a couple of > > > days ago. I expected it to be laden with carbon deposits, but it came > > > out looking like new despite being in there for 4 years. Admittedly I > > > put very few hours on the sub, but it still surprised me that the oil > > > came out looking as clear as the day it went in. And yes, it WAS oil not > > > water that came out... > > > > > > :) > > > > > > > > > > >
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