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What is the ideal humidity for a sub. I understand that
you need some humidity for the scrubber to operate efficiently. I have a
small solid state 12 volt fridge that has a cooling plate which if placed in
front of the scrubber intake could act as a dehumidifier albeit at the expense
of some power. The scrubber is exothermic so the heat given off that is
surely the best to use directing the air over the viewports. Is that
practical? Can we hear from some experienced subbers? Does the
scrubber material work significantly better at elevated temperatures or is it
Ok to work with cold air from the “dehumidifier” . The other
alternative is to have some dessicant before or after the scrubber. Is
this done at all? Antifog products that you can get from automotive
suppliers and some advertised for glasses and mirrors is another possibility.
Are any of these OK on acrylic? Hugh. From:
owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of ShellyDalg@aol.com For electrical enclosures, I wonder if some small packets of
dessicant placed inside would be of any use. Of course, they'd have to be
renewed fairly often, say as part of the clean-up after a day of diving. With
the right design like hinged front plates, it should be possible to make
it quick and easy to open them up and change out the little packets. Seems like it would be better to de-humidify all the air if you
could, maybe incorporating a drying cycle during battery charging to really dry
out all the nooks and crannies over night as the batteries are being topped
off. Scuba tank air is very dry, but most if not all of that is used
for blowing ballast, not breathing. Like Jon said, a lot depends on how moist
the air is in your dive location. Not much we can do to change that, but
circulating the air inside and using a moisture trap in the fan system should
help in high humidity environments. My electrical systems are pretty basic, and I'm hoping just a
spray on coating will prevent most corrosion. My approach to most perceived problems are to keep the whole thing
as simple as possible, with an eye toward easy maintenance and repair. Keeping
all the parts and systems down to an absolute minimum, and keeping everything
easily accessible and quickly replaceable should help keep corrosion to a
minimum. With the required electronic devices like radio, sonar, gas monitors,
depth finders,video, etc, ( cd player!!!!) maybe routing some air flow through
the enclosures would be possible. Have the driest air coming directly from the
fan blow through the equipment cases. This would also help to cool the
equipment, and maybe warm the air a bit before it reaches the window vent. Insulation on the inside of the hull might be of some use also. Frank D.
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