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For electrical enclosures, I wonder if some small packets of dessicant
placed inside would be of any use. Of course, they'd have to be renewed fairly
often, say as part of the clean-up after a day of diving. With the right design
like hinged front plates, it should be possible to make it quick and easy
to open them up and change out the little packets.
Seems like it would be better to de-humidify all the air if you could,
maybe incorporating a drying cycle during battery charging to really dry out all
the nooks and crannies over night as the batteries are being topped off.
Scuba tank air is very dry, but most if not all of that is used for blowing
ballast, not breathing. Like Jon said, a lot depends on how moist the air is in
your dive location. Not much we can do to change that, but circulating the air
inside and using a moisture trap in the fan system should help in high humidity
environments.
My electrical systems are pretty basic, and I'm hoping just a spray on
coating will prevent most corrosion.
My approach to most perceived problems are to keep the whole thing as
simple as possible, with an eye toward easy maintenance and repair. Keeping all
the parts and systems down to an absolute minimum, and keeping everything easily
accessible and quickly replaceable should help keep corrosion to a minimum. With
the required electronic devices like radio, sonar, gas monitors, depth
finders,video, etc, ( cd player!!!!) maybe routing some air flow through the
enclosures would be possible. Have the driest air coming directly from the fan
blow through the equipment cases. This would also help to cool the equipment,
and maybe warm the air a bit before it reaches the window vent.
Insulation on the inside of the hull might be of some use also.
Frank D.
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