Hi Vance,
Good point about using ice and fans ala Seamagine.
This systems works even better if the block of water ice is cooled overnight in
a cooler filled with dry ice. Obviously, you can’t use dry ice in a sub-
but it can be used to the night before to cool water ice down to almost -100 F
before putting it in the subs ventilation system. Just crack open after
submerging and turn on the fan. Don’t forget your gloves!
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of vbra676539@aol.com
Sent: Monday, March 16, 2009 6:44
AM
To:
personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] heated
sub
I
don't know about controlling temperature, although we used syntactic foam on
diving bells for that along with its buoyancy properties (mounted
externally, of course). As has been asked before, where in the world is the
metal sub getting so much temperature rise, seeing as how it is diving in the
world's largest heat sink. As to fiberglas hulls, I just don't know, having
never had one. My reference to plastic was for acrylic pressure hulls, which
insulate very nicely.
Why not experiment with ice and boxer fans (which is what the Seamagines
use with great success, apparently, and cheaply to boot). When you start
talking about compressors and condensers and all that, then you have to plan a
whole new addition to the sub's hotel load. Maybe you don't really need that
(and maybe I'm just guessing, as you might have guessed).
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: ALAN JAMES <alanjames@xtra.co.nz>
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Sun, 15 Mar 2009 3:14 pm
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] heated sub
So you are saying that for the small
plastic sub I'm planning
some sort of cooling is a good idea?
On metal subs would removable
squares of plastic foam in between the bracing
help to c ontrol temperature?
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday,
March 16, 2009 7:10 AM
Subject: Re:
[PSUBS-MAILIST] heated sub
Temp
is relative more to the water than the bodies, and humidity condenses on the
metal. So plan on mopping out after a dive. Plastic hulls insulate, so we had
to run airconditioners (in the JSLs for instance). Otherwise, no. It's mostly a
waste of effort and time. If the water is cold, get your long johns out.
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: Recon1st@aol.com
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Sun, 15 Mar 2009 11:53 am
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] heated sub
Vance could you enlighten us on your experience with=2 0the temp
and humidity conditions?
With your experience you must of been in some cold water.
In a
message dated 3/15/2009 7:50:54 A.M. Central Daylight Time, vbra676539@aol.com writes:
I'm not
getting through on this link. Is it me?
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: Nomdae Plume <nomdae@hotmail.com>
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Sun, 15 Mar 2009 8:43 am
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] heated sub
< br>
Hey Frank:
I posted this link a few months ago, but I'll post it again because it sounds
like this is what you're planning:
http://www..rebreatherworld.com/megalodon-rebreather-articles/7286-homebuilt-meg-radial-scrubber.html
It's a homebuilt CO2 scrubber. I'm wondering if someone could also fill it with
"Damp Rid", or some other kind of desiccant, to help control
moisture. It would be interesting to have a system that passed cabin-air
through the drying canister, then through the CO2 scrubber, then injected O2
before blowing it over the viewports to keep them clear.
As for my heating/cooling needs, I'm not going to worry about it. My sub
will be a dark color (brown), and I'll be running it in water that'll be about
72 degrees average. If, after a few dives, I find myself sweltering or
shivering, I'll think up something to fix the problem.
From: ShellyDalg@aol.com
Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2009 00:16:33 -0400
0ASubject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] heated sub
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Hi
Dean. Ya, I'll need the heaters when I come up to play "you sunk my
battleship" with you.
Lake
Superior IS cold. I grew up on Lake Ontario and I remember when we'd get ice
flows coming off the lake. It would pile up 20 feet or better on the beach. Fu
n for kids playing in the ice caves and stuff. Scary when I think how stupid we
were, but hey, it was lots of fun.
For
heaters....well, that's a tough one. I'm very miserly with my electrical
usage. I've been leaning toward a chemical solution rather than some kind of
electrical resistance heater. My thought was that it'll be necessary to
change out the air scrubber chemicals anyway, and a canister type thing with
the scrubber chemical and another with a heater canister should be able to be
incorporated into a "quick change" chamber with a small 12 volt fan.
The outlet would blow clean, dry, warm air over the windows to ventilate the
sub. The device will need a small condensate reservoir or trap, which
would need emptying after a dive, and of course replacement of the scrubber
canister and heater canister.
The
trick is to make the canisters reuseable so you could carry a couple of sets,
and just change the raw chemicals in the spares e ach day. Self heating ch
emicals are easy to get, and a finned two chamber canister, where the air flows
over the fins, should be fairly easy to make. Pack the stuff in there, shake it
up, put it into the fan unit, and warm air comes out.
My
buddy has a little can thing he puts in his pocket when we ride on cold nights.
He puts his hand in there and it warms right up. Good for about three hours.
Seems like a larger unit with a fan could do the same thing. Haven't got that
far yet,20but I'm thinkin.......
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