RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] wood skids

Weld on some padeyes and use hefty bolts. The skids will need to support the entire sub's weight on the ground, rather than depending on the bolts. But use big bolts, as these things can and will take some abuse while you're bumping around down on the bottom.
Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: Recon1st@aol.com
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 9:11 am
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] wood skids

Vance what a great idea.

I was just about to weld on some 3" channel. Really did not like that as can not

paint the enclosed area. I think I am going to have to try this.

For mounting, how much compression do you think will occur? I am thinking I could bolt

em on.

Dean

In a message dated 2/22/2009 7:57:49 A.M. Central Standard Time, vbra676539@aol.com writes:

Brent,
Considering the cost, why not just set the assembly up for easier DIS-assembly and paint under there annually, like everyone should have done in the first place. Stainless corrodes in low oxygen enviornments, so you might just be building another problem down underneath. I'd also consider using plain old dipped galvanize pipe for bottom skids, rather than stainless. Again, for the price difference, you could just throw them away during the annual overhaul and it would cost just a few bucks, rather than a lot of bucks. Alternatively, weld in some new brackets and bolt on pressure treated pine skids. It will wear some during operations, but can be discarded and replaced for not much money. I've got teak skids under the pods on my K350, but at today's prices, I'd do something less expensive.
Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: Brent Hartwig <brenthartwig@hotmail.com>
To: PSUBSorg <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 12:54 am
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Lead Plates Removel on K-250 #118

Greetings SMMOMs,

The nuts on the inside of the lead plates were rusted on, and it was to tight in under there to cut them off. So I just drilled out the carriage bolt heads instead, then punched them thru. Because there was no gap between the lead plates and the steel parts, those area rusted faster. I can see some one adding a few SS weld beads vertically on both sides of the vertical plate that the lead is attached to. So that the lead plates would rest up against them and let those areas dry out faster.

I'm thinking I'll replace the vertical steel plate and lower skid plate with SS. There is some heavy pitting on the vertical plates, but there is likely still enough material there if I wanted to use it. If I did I would weld in some SS bushings were the attachment holes are.

You'll notice that the port outside lead plate has forstner bit holes drilled all over it. that was because the inside port plate was much thicker then the starboard inside plate, and so the sub was at one time to heavy on the port side. For some reason they felt is was easier to remove the extra weight from the outer plate. So remember to weigh your plates before you install them.

I will have a few small areas on the tube section of the hull to weld in some pits. But I don't think it will be to bad after talking with some of the guys.

http://cid-5085d10eb6afe47c.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/Lead%20Plates%20Removel

" The beginning of knowledge is the discovery of something we do not understand." ~ Frank Herbert

Regards,
Szybowski

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