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Greetings Frank, I think the V block type thru hull seals are good. My sub has several that didn't use a O-ring but some sort of packing material. As for the thru hulls with two O-ring glands machined into them as shown on the K-250 and K-350 plans. I have not hear about any real trouble with them. Dan H. uses them on his thrusters and drop weight thru hulls. I like the idea of a shoulder or the like to keep the rod from coming inside. I was even thinking of machining in a O-ring gland or two to the shoulder flange or it's mating surface that is welding into the hull. The put some water proof grease on the O-rings to allow for easier rotation of the shaft. Regards,
Brent Hartwig From: ShellyDalg@aol.com Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 12:49:35 -0400 Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Dome Calculations To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org In a message dated 8/26/2008 7:05:46 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
james@guernseysubmarine.com writes:
http://www.guernseysubmarine.com/index_files/Page12229.htm Hi James. Just a couple of thoughts. First off, Sikaflex is VERY strong,
even when used sparingly. I don't think you'll be kicking out that dome if it's
glued in. Don't most dome installations have a tapered seat that compresses the
dome radially as the pressure builds? I think Stachiews book has info on
that.
Second, The handle penetrating the sub as a lockdown will need a shoulder
so it doesn't get forced into the hole. I don't have a set of K boat plans, but
I know that some of the guys are using "block V " seals where a shaft penetrates
the hull. Jim K. has a source for them. Gary used them on his hatch dogs and
said they work good. I'm not sure how good O rings work on a through hull over a
long period of time. Frank D.
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