-Gday Hugh, I have used POR 15 quiet a lot, it
is only as good as the surface that you put it on and it also needs to be
painted over, that is protected from UV/sunlight etc. There is no great
problem with pot life as long as you decant what you need at any one time and
place a layer of say gladwrap over the tin before putting on the lid to effect
a good seal. Hope this is some help. Clive.
I have found a paint
system that is called P.O.R. ( Paint over rust ) Developed in the
US for antique car restorers.
I t sticks like hell and can be and is best painted onto a rusty
surface. Have any of you guys come across it. You can hammer it
after it drys. I?m planning on using it on some bits. I have used
it in industrial situations but first saw it on an anchor. Only problem
is it is hard to store once you open the can.
http://www.por15.com/
regards,
Hugh
From:
owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of
ShellyDalg@aol.com
Sent: 10 May 2008 06:24
To:
personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] goop and
sealers
Hi David. We talked
on the phone about this, but I thought I'd send it here to all the
guys.
I've used a product
over the years with great success. It's called Vulcem and is a liquid
polyurethane that comes in a can.
I used a paint brush
to apply it, and have seen it hold up well in many applications over extended
periods of time.
As far as I can
tell, it's impervious to most everything ( except solvents) remains
flexible for years even in direct sunlight, and is really strong. It tends to
thicken up in cold temperatures so application should be done when it's
warm.
I plan on applying a
coat on top of the compression fittings and cable connectors where they meet
the through-hulls as a back-up sealer. This stuff is really tough, and even
when I used it on some seams inside chemical/acid double containment tanks at
a local Intel plant, It was still in good shape after 5 years. I used it on
metal seams on the roof and the metal regularly went from 150 degrees in
summer sun to below freezing in winter. A leak developed up there so we went
up and surveyed the whole job and basically went over the whole system with a
fine tooth comb trying to trace the leak. Turned out it was a lead flashing
near the roof penetration, and not the Vulcem protected seams and joints. This
was after over 5 years.
It stays flexible,
is grey in color, and although it's a pain to remove, not any more difficult
than silicone from a tube or Sika-Flex. It is liquid enough to float out
nice and smooth when applied on a warm day, and with a little masking tape, a
nice clean looking job can be achieved.
Possibly a way
to mitigate replacement hassles would be to put those heat-shrink tubes over
the connectors, and then the Vulcem over that. In that way we might be able to
just score the shrink-wrap tube with a knife and pull the whole thing off
without having to clean the stuff off the threads or whatever. ( I haven't
tried this yet, but it makes sense.)
Anyway, just thought
I'd throw that out there. Frank D.