Stainless steel welded cladding
is regularly used in the nuclear industry to line pressure vessels and other
items…has a good track record.
To do chrome plating on iron, you actually have to apply 3
different plating metals; in order of application: copper, nickel, and then
chrome. With a scratch, you don’t have very good corrosion
prevention in the maritime environment.
R/Jay
Respectfully,
Jay K. Jeffries
Andros Is., Bahamas
Vive
vt vivas
— Live that you may live
From:
owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Emile van
Essen
Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 07:32
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Dome/hatch seat
Thanks for your thoughts and experience!
Good to know the right procedure for weld cladding. However I think
it gives a lot of stress and or distortion.
Frank, Chrome plating does not hide machining marks (steel has to
be polished first) and has not a very good corrosion resistance. (polishing
afterwards reduces porosity)
Emile
Van: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] Namens Daniel Lance
Verzonden: zondag 6 april 2008 2:04
Aan: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Onderwerp: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Dome/hatch seat
Weld
your carbon steel hatch flange to the conning tower upper section ( this will
keep it stable during the cladding process ) . Set up a powered turn table that
will hold the weight of the conning tower assembly . Mount your MIG welder gun
on some type of incrementally adjustable fixture. The gun will have to move
across the face of the flange horizontally and vertically as successive layers
of weld beads are laid down. You will also need some type of a rotary ground to
the welding machine. Pre heat the flange to 150/200 degrees F then begin
the cladding process by first applying a layer of 309L stainless steel
base metal and then a top layer of 316L. Keep the weld beads as
closely overlapped as possible. The 309L layer should be at least
.062"to .093" thick and the 316L layer should be about
.093" to .125" thick to allow enough build up for the final machined
finish. Cladding is done all the time in industry . Practice on some s! crap
first to get you technique zero ' ed in.
-----
Original Message -----
Sent: 4/4/2008
7:04:17 PM
Subject: Re:
[PSUBS-MAILIST] Dome/hatch seat
Sounds
like a great idea. I'm not sure that you can clad a portion of something,
however hopefully someone has a plan!
-----
Original Message -----
Sent: Friday,
April 04, 2008 3:13 PM
Subject:
[PSUBS-MAILIST] Dome/hatch seat
Hi,
The
most obvious solution to have a rust free dome/hatch seat is to weld a
stainless steel ring on the steel.
I
wondered if there is a suitable cladding technique to clad a layer of stainless
steel to the hull steel.
Anyone
experience?
Regards,
Emile
Emile
van Essen
www.AiResearch.nl
Hobbemalaan
54
1816GE
Alkmaar
072-5122401
/ 06-44500720
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