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 Hi Vance, 
  
Thanks for the flange mounted ball valve. I hadn't 
thought of that. I think it will do fine and i'll be looking into 
it! 
  
Best Regards, 
  
Jim K 
  ----- Original Message -----  
  
  
  Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 7:40 
PM 
  Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] MBT air 
  lock 
  
  Jim, You might think about a flange mounted ball valve, and cut 
  the top end (flange, pipe or female pipe) all the way down to the upper 
  extremity of the ball housing adjustment ring. That would get it down to a 
  reasonable height, I think. Vance
 
  -----Original 
  Message----- From: Jim Kocourek <kocpnt@tds.net> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org Sent: 
  Thu, 20 Mar 2008 7:16 am Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] MBT air lock
  
  
  Hi Vance, 
  Thanks for the good info. As`anyone who knows me 
  well will attest, I do not have a lot of patience. I am finalizing my design 
  for the soft tanks now and will have a larger size valve actuated with a thru 
  hull on each tank with no line. It will vent directly out. I am looking for 
  possibly a slide valve or something that will have a large opening and not 
  take up too much space. If I don't find anything better I will use 1-1/2 inch 
  ball valves. 
    
  Best Regards, 
    
  Jim K 
  
    ----- Original Message -----  
    
    
    Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2008 6:52 
    PM 
    Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] MBT air 
    lock 
    
  Hey guys,
  Not to rain on anyone's parade, but it was, 
    in fact, perfectly normal in the oilfield subs to trim a little heavy and 
    "ride the bubble" meaning a shot of air in the MBTs to maneuver with. It's 
    handy if you are operating near the bottom, and very quick, assuming a 
    fairly stable depth. That way, you can goof around down there to your 
    heart's content, and vent quick to settle onto the bottom if and/or when you 
    need to. Neutral buoyancy via small trim systems is a fine thing, but slow 
    and finicky to do (except in the JSLs which have almost as much VBT as most 
    boats have MBT).
  Don't sell yourself short by saying that there's 
    only one way to do things, as there are, in fact, a whole pile of variations 
    out there, and they're like spare ammunition for your personal defense 
    firearm--mighty handy to have when you need them. The Navy guys cringe at 
    the idea of that bubble, but it worked a treat, and was even included in the 
    beginning pilot's training classes, right alongside VBT-101 and all the 
    rest.
  As to the fairwater vent valve size, bigger is better. George's 
    were (are) too small. When I vent, I want to GO!, and I mean right now. 
    Three-quarter inch valves are, in my opinion, about the minimum. One inch 
    and up would be even better!!! That's for ball valves, of 
    course.
  The Aquarius used pneumatic mushroom valves designed pretty 
    much after a dry suit vent valve, only bigger. The vent area itself was 
    an inch and a half in diameter (or thereabouts) with a ring of half inch 
    holes in the body. Pop the valve and out came the air, and I don't mean 
    maybe. You could vent a half ton of fairwater ballast air in no time flat, 
    and it was really nice to be able to get underwater without all that waiting 
    around.
  Remember, anything you can do to keep from spilling your 
    coffee is worth a try. Wallowing around in three or four meter waves is 
    something you don't want to do any more of than you have to. Taking that 
    lesson forward, it stands to reason that the more flexible you can make your 
    sub, the more capable it will be, and that translates to a better tool for 
    you. It's a sort of belt and suspenders approach, which I heartily approve 
    of.
  Vance
 
  -----Original Message----- From: Dan. H. 
    <jumachine@comcast.net> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org Sent: 
    Mon, 17 Mar 2008 10:57 pm Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] MBT air 
    lock
  
    
    Frank and Brian, 
      
    The MBT's are only used at the surface.  When diving they should 
    be totally full of water and not used for depth control.  When the 
    tanks are being flooded, all air gets expelled, even the air in the 
    line.  That's how the water gets in the line.  Once my tanks are 
    full of water I leave the vent valves open and never feel a difference in 
    buoyancy while diving.. 
      
    The Variable Ballast Tank (VBT or hard ballast tank) is 
    what is use to adjust buoyancy.  That's designed with all ports 
    closable so once it's set, the bubble can't shrink or expand while your 
    diving.   
      
    Frank, 
    It looks to me like your system will work since your lines is 
    sloped back.   Any water caught in them should eventually 
    settle back in the tank, but you can't have any dips..  A three eights 
    line may be a little small though.  It will take a long time to 
    vent and it's harder for air to travel up as the water runs back.  Half 
    inch would be better.  Water will be caught in the pipe above the 
    closed vent valve though.  If it's low to the water line, it may be 
    blown out by the pressure in the MBT but if it's not, a quick burst of fill 
    air through your T will surely clear the line.   
      
    Still, I feel the better way to deal with the vents is to place the 
    valve right at the top of the tank and run linkage rather then tubing.  
    But it's not the only way.  As long as you can prevent water from 
    getting trapped in the line or have a method to blow it out it will work. 
     
      
    Dan H. 
    
      ----- Original Message -----  
      
      
      Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 2:04 
      PM 
      Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] MBT air 
      lock 
      
  
      Hi guys. Is the air lock problem on the ballast tanks due 
      to the line from tank to valve being too long? Or is it that the 
      valve has a length of line above it that holds water ? 
      I know that the line can't have any low spots in it, or even just run 
      level, but must have a continuous up-slope. I remember Gary saying his 
      original installation had a low/level spot that trapped a little water and 
      effectively plugged the line, but he fixed it by moving the valve higher. 
      His valves are located outside the tower, with the 
      valve handles inside and a seal on the valve handle shaft. It's 
      a nice clean installation. 
       I am planning on running the lines into the sub, and using a 
      ''T'' with air line to blow the tanks, and the line exiting the sub near 
      the top of the hull. This method has the same number of thru-hulls, 
      but has more valves. One on each thru-hull, and one on the ''T'' for the 
      air line. ( three valves for each tank.) 
       I think Gary's has a separate air line going to the tank for 
      blowing dry so basically one thru-hull for the air line and one for the 
      valve handle shaft.   
      My ballast tanks are several inches higher at the connection, and I'm 
      hoping that with the short length of the plumbing, I should be able to 
      avoid any blockage.  
      The hole in the bottom of the tanks is low and 3 inch diameter. I was 
      planning on using a 1/2 inch thru-hull for releasing the air. Does anyone 
      think that's too small ? 
      I'll try to put a sketch of the system up so you guys can comment on 
      it.  
      Frank D.  
 
  
        
    
    
     
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