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RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] MBT air lock



Dan,
          Yes, you are right about that with the MBT's .  What about pumping the water out?
 
Brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org]On Behalf Of Dan. H.
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 7:58 PM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] MBT air lock

Frank and Brian,
 
The MBT's are only used at the surface.  When diving they should be totally full of water and not used for depth control.  When the tanks are being flooded, all air gets expelled, even the air in the line.  That's how the water gets in the line.  Once my tanks are full of water I leave the vent valves open and never feel a difference in buoyancy while diving..
 
The Variable Ballast Tank (VBT or hard ballast tank) is what is use to adjust buoyancy.  That's designed with all ports closable so once it's set, the bubble can't shrink or expand while your diving. 
 
Frank,
It looks to me like your system will work since your lines is sloped back.   Any water caught in them should eventually settle back in the tank, but you can't have any dips..  A three eights line may be a little small though.  It will take a long time to vent and it's harder for air to travel up as the water runs back.  Half inch would be better.  Water will be caught in the pipe above the closed vent valve though.  If it's low to the water line, it may be blown out by the pressure in the MBT but if it's not, a quick burst of fill air through your T will surely clear the line. 
 
Still, I feel the better way to deal with the vents is to place the valve right at the top of the tank and run linkage rather then tubing.  But it's not the only way.  As long as you can prevent water from getting trapped in the line or have a method to blow it out it will work.
 
Dan H.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 2:04 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] MBT air lock

Hi guys. Is the air lock problem on the ballast tanks due to the line from tank to valve being too long? Or is it that the valve has a length of line above it that holds water ?
I know that the line can't have any low spots in it, or even just run level, but must have a continuous up-slope. I remember Gary saying his original installation had a low/level spot that trapped a little water and effectively plugged the line, but he fixed it by moving the valve higher. His valves are located outside the tower, with the valve handles inside and a seal on the valve handle shaft. It's a nice clean installation.
 I am planning on running the lines into the sub, and using a ''T'' with air line to blow the tanks, and the line exiting the sub near the top of the hull. This method has the same number of thru-hulls, but has more valves. One on each thru-hull, and one on the ''T'' for the air line. ( three valves for each tank.)
 I think Gary's has a separate air line going to the tank for blowing dry so basically one thru-hull for the air line and one for the valve handle shaft. 
My ballast tanks are several inches higher at the connection, and I'm hoping that with the short length of the plumbing, I should be able to avoid any blockage.
The hole in the bottom of the tanks is low and 3 inch diameter. I was planning on using a 1/2 inch thru-hull for releasing the air. Does anyone think that's too small ?
I'll try to put a sketch of the system up so you guys can comment on it.
Frank D.