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Hello again Hugh. I chose the two tank head shape for just that reason.
Although I'm not claustrophobic, many people are. After sitting in several of
the ''propane tank'' types, from 36 inch dia. to 52'' dia. I built a wire frame
and cardboard hull shape of my current design and a 48 inch tube just to see how
it felt to be inside.
There's a huge difference. Although I lose room in the length, the extra
width makes the interior feel much larger. Movement inside is also much easier.
With the ''K'' boats, you have to crawl to the back to access the batteries or
whatever and when the plumbing and wiring is there, it gets pretty tight.
The seat centered under the tower of the ''K'' boats makes it difficult to
move around inside as well. When you're driving the sub, you are quite a
distance from the front windows, so seeing something up close while maneuvering
means you can't see through the tower windows, and you're either sitting on the
floor next to the windows, or lying down. In that position, only one person at a
time can be close to the front, with the passenger looking over your shoulder
for an outside view.
With the flattened sphere shape, I'm sitting side by side with my
passenger, and we're both looking out all three windows, and are very close to
the windows. The view is really pretty good.
I don't have a tower, so I will probably add two more windows. One on each
side. I have the material, but didn't cut them in yet. The two smaller 12 inch
windows are angled up slightly so I can see up and forward and to the
side pretty good while still driving, but can't see directly beside me
or behind. I'll be installing a video camera/ periscope that will rotate and an
onboard TV for that. Now that I have the hull together, I like the side window
idea because I'll be able to see my side motors/dive planes.
My joysticks will be in a box that can be moved around, so when I'm
maneuvering with the hatch open, like at the dock, I'll be standing up, my head
outside, and the box will be hanging on a latch next to the hatch ring. When I'm
submerged, the box will be sitting in the cradle, next to the gages.
The 84 inch tank heads have a capacity of 334 gallons each. A 2:1 semi
eliptical tank head (one) at 72 inch diameter has a capacity of 211 gallons.
This will help you calculate displacement, and final weight.
I had originally wanted to use 96 inch domes, but with side motors, it
would be too wide to transport easily.
The 84 inch was a good compromise. 6 inches less width on each side, wasn't
too noticeable, and keeps it small enough to tow behind a truck on the road. I
would highly recommend making the wire and cardboard frame for what ever shape
you choose. It's cheap, fast, and really gives you a good idea of how it feels.
You can knife out what ever windows you're contemplating, and move them around
easily.
The 6 inch ring was needed to get an inside height of 52 inches. I should
have had the heads made with a 3 inch straight section. That would have
eliminated the 6 inch ring, and given me just one circumference weld.
Highly recommended. One more thing. My hull is 3/8 inch thick. Because I
need to add a lot of lead anyway, I'd go with 1/2 inch thick. The extra strength
is good, and the difference in cost is small. That extra 1/8 inch thickness adds
a lot of depth to the hull crush factor.
The windows are the weakest point, so make them strong. I anticipate diving
at 150 feet most of the time, but I want to be able to go in water 500 feet
deep and if I sink to the bottom for some reason, well, you get the idea.
The inside height is something to consider closely. At 48 inches, it's a
little close. 52 inch fit me good. The interior is roomy, I can just reach over
and access the entire inside easily, where the electrical connections, valves,
(and wet bar) are easy to reach. The sound inside is pretty cool too. I had my
wife climb in and sit next to me and there's lots of room for two. It could
even carry three if they were thin.
The seating is still under design, and will probably have a bench seat
rather than the bucket seats I've got on my picture page.
A bench makes more sense when I'll be alone in the sub. I'll be sitting on
just pillows until the sub is tested so I can get some driving experience before
committing to a final seat design.
I'll have a total of 10 batteries. 3 banks of three,( 36 volts per
bank) with one more for fans, lights, etc.( and the stereo)
The batteries are located low along the perimeter, and don't take up much
space there. Three on each side, three behind the seat, and the single one
in front of the back three. This leaves plenty of room for seating, and the
battery compartments are boxed and sealed, with a flat lid on each. Kind of
looks like arm rests.
I've kept all the gear low, so the center of gravity stays low, and it
maintains the roomy feel. The plumbing is against the hull, and valves ( even
the overhead ones) are easily reachable from anywhere inside .I've got room
between the battery banks for the two scuba tanks for high pressure air, and the
two pony bottles with regulators for emergency escape or back-up air.
Trust me. Build a card board model first, add all the cardboard boxes
for batteries and tanks, cut in the windows, and play with it before committing
to a final shape/size. I learned a lot about placement by doing this.
I got my tank heads from ''Fort Worth F&D Tank Head Co. in Texas.
They had the best price at the time. (last year) I had to get a local iron shop
to buy them for me, because they only sell wholesale.
Well, that's about all for now. Let me know if I can help, and good luck in
your project. Frank D.
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