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RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Viewport Question.
For me having a way to secure the hatch from the outside would be
nessesary if I was surfaced and decided to go outside the sub but I wanted
to make sure the hatch was closed in case of waves and water getting into
the sub if it was anchored in rough water. But one thing I don't like about
having a handle on the outside top of the hatch is that it is a good place
where a old rusty cable could get hooked on there and snag your sub and get
you hung up. For that reason I was thinking of just having a 3/4" square
stub sticking up where I could attach a temporary handle to dog down the
hatch from the outside if I needed to.
Brian Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org]On Behalf Of Dan. H.
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 8:36 AM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Viewport Question.
Some members of our local dive rescue team looked over my sub after it was
completed. One recommendation they had was to add a fitting and valve on
the outside of the hull to allow them to inject air into the hull if I was
inside and unconscious. I never added it because I didn't like the idea of
an open line into the hull without being in some closed system or with a
closed valve on it. It may be a nice addition. At least, someone could
dilute a contaminated atmosphere in the sub or increase the hull pressure if
needed.
Just a thought,
Dan H.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Cox" <ojaivalleybeefarm@dslextreme.com>
To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 12:50 AM
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Viewport Question.
> Hi,
> How would anyone be able to open your hatch if you are submerged? The
> pressure would be too great to open the hatch and even if they did the
> sudden pressure change would probably damage parts of your body.
>
> Brian
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org]On Behalf Of Jim Kocourek
> Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 5:04 PM
> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Viewport Question.
>
>
> Hi Alec,
>
> I'm revisiting a previous area we discussed. You mentioned that you
> seriously overbuilt your viewport bases to minimize distortion. I was
> wondering what the size actually was. I am planning on having the OD full
> thickness of the port base 2 inches thich and 1ne inch wide with the
> portion
> of the base supporting the viewport 1 1/4 inches wide and one inch thick.
> How does this compare with yours.
>
> The viewport will be welded to 1/2 thick steel.
>
> If anyone else hase thoughts please share them.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Kocourek
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Smyth, Alec" <Alec.Smyth@compuware.com>
> To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
> Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 11:10 AM
> Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Viewport Question.
>
>
> Thanks Dan and Jim. The viewport retaining ring inside cutouts were
> nicely sized to put inside the viewports, and I used the feeler gauge
> method. Happily, I was not able to measure any deflection at all, the
> viewport seats are still true after welding. A few years ago I'd put in
> flat SS seats for bulkheads carrying electrical penetrators, and was
> surprised at how much one of them had been bent by the welding. These
> viewport seats were seriously over-built to avoid that problem, but it's
> really nice to verify that it worked.
>
> cheers,
>
> Alec
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Dan. H.
> Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 6:13 PM
> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Viewport Question.
>
> Alex,
>
> All you need to check flatness of the viewport seats is something flat
> that's the diameter of the lens and a set of feeler gauges. The first
> thing that comes to mind for a flat reference is a disk of steel or
> aluminum faced flat on a lathe. If not that maybe even a piece of plate
> glass cut and nipped to fit into the housing.
>
> With the flat piece in the housing you can try to fit the feeler gauge
> shims in behind it from the inside. If you can't fit any shims in, it's
> flat. If you find you have a wobble you can stack up shims to see how
> much out of flat it is.
>
> Your out of roundness is most likely an oval with one wide spot and one
> narrow spot. It's probably going to be wide from top to bottom and
> narrow from side to side because of the geometry of the intersection of
> the two parts. If you don't have an inside micrometer set you can
> measure it with a piece of rod, say about a 1/4 inch diameter, cut to
> just fit the diameter of the hole in the narrowest part and then use it
> and a feeler gauge to measure how loose it fits when inserted in the
> same hole but in the widest part.
>
> Either that or wander up north on Rt 81 and I'll loan you the gauges.
>
> If you have to, a larger shop could put the whole conning tower on a
> boring mill and true it up for you but hold on to your wallet.
> Dan H.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Smyth, Alec" <Alec.Smyth@compuware.com>
> To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 1:17 PM
> Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Viewport Question.
>
>
> Hi Dan,
>
> I noted your comment about the slight distortion of the viewport seats
> after welding. I've made mine rather massive in an effort to avoid that,
> but d'you have a tip regarding how I can check whether it worked? I'd
> love to get a dial indicator on them, but don't see an obvious way to do
> that since they're welded into the coning tower. I'd really like to
> check whether they're still flat before the tower goes on the sub, since
> it should be possible (though admittedly hard), to refinish them by
> turning the whole coning tower on a lathe.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alec
>
>
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> From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Dan. H.
> Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 8:31 AM
> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Viewport Question.
>
> James,
>
> Also be aware that acrylic thickness isn't constant even when cut from
> the same sheet. It may be wise to have your acrylic parts in hand
> before machining your rings.
>
> The only way to get a truly good fit between the lenses and housing
> rings is to do a final machining after the rings are welded into the
> hull, but most of us don't have that option. Anything else is just
> doing the bet you can do with what happens after welding and the
> tolerance of the acrylic you get.
>
> Hey! Nice web site!
> Dan H.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Frankland" <james@guernseysubmarine.com>
> To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 6:02 AM
> Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Viewport Question.
>
>
> Hello All.
>
> Quick question regarding viewports tolerance.
>
> Ive started machining and have done 2 at the moment. Ive machined the
> depth of the bore to be exactly 1.25 inches as per the plans, and the
> inside diameter i have machined to 8 inches plus a clearance of 0.5 mm
> to allow the lense to drop in. (sorry, the plans are imperial but we're
> metric here, so its a bit of both).
>
> Im not making the acrylic lenses myself, i will buy them (probably from
> psubs store). Assuming they come in exactly at 8 inches OD, as things
> are they should slot in nice and tight.
>
> But Dan H mentioned to me that he got some slight distortion on the
> ports after welding.
>
> So the question is, do you think 0.5 mm clearance is enough? Obviously
> i cannot alter the ports once they are welded in, and don't want to have
> to start machining the lenses, they must fit.
>
> You can have a look here as usual. Some of the text titles are wrong.
> I'll
> change them later.
>
> http://www.guernseysubmarine.com/index_files/Page7497.htm
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks
> James
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jay K. Jeffries [mailto:bottomgun@mindspring.com]
> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> Sent: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 20:16:42 -0500
> Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Digital Multi-Frequency Scanning Sonar
>
> Here is what looks like a great scanning sonar for a PSUB. If it is
> priced like some of their other products, it should be a great deal.
>
>
>
> http://www.imagenex.com/html/881l_imaging.html
>
>
>
> R/Jay
>
>
>
>
>
> Respectfully,
>
> Jay K. Jeffries
>
> Andros Is., Bahamas
>
>
>
> A skimmer afloat is but a submarine, so poorly built it will not plunge.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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