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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] concrete submarine yacht - building cost



We fixed them when they needed it, just kept an eye on the rubber. Any little bits indicated primary seal deterioration. We had a big shaft, too, maybe 3/4" or 1". I'd have to look that up. Vance
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Alec.Smyth@compuware.com
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 2:33 PM
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] concrete submarine yacht - building cost

Wow! D'you happen to recall how often they had to change the o-rings? These days, if one took that approach, you could also probably do even better these days by running the o-rings against a low friction plastic insert.
 
thanks,

Alec


From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of vbra676539@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 1:46 PM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] concrete submarine yacht - building cost

Alec, I bet to differ. The JSLs used a double o-ring seal cut into the shaft (about 300 RPM) running on a case hardened/anodized aluminum insert, and we dove to 2000 feet about a million times or so. They changed to ceramic seals when the subs were recertified to 3000. Not before. Vance
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Alec.Smyth@compuware.com
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 12:41 PM
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] concrete submarine yacht - building cost

Oystein,

Coincidentally I happen to be sourcing a shaft seal myself at this time. If that 
shaft is for propulsion, I'm afraid the proposed design is NOT ok. O rings are 
fine for static shafts like those for releasing an emergency weight, or ones 
that turn just a little, like dive plane shafts. But the taper on the shaft you 
drew looks like it's intended for a propeller, and O rings are definitely out 
for that because a spinning shaft would wear them out.

I suggest you look at mechanical shaft seals, also called pump seals. There are 
two large categories of those. "Component" seals are just the seal, and what I 
am using because I do my own machining. If you don't have your own lathe, you 
can get a bolt-on type of seal called a "cartridge seal", which is the similar 
to a component seal except encapsulated in parts with bolt holes. Of course the 
latter are more expensive, but they save you some work.

There are thousands of seals to choose from. Here are the parameters you will 
need in order to determine which one is appropriate for your design:

- Shaft diameter
- Maximum operating pressure
- Shaft RPM
- Sealed fluid (water in our case)
- Operating temperature (specify the warmest water you expect to dive in)

As an example, here is the literature on the component shaft seal I'm planning 
to use:


http://www.johncrane.com/amer/english/product/JC_IncludeFile/urlIncludeFile_id_1052751104642_S-9B_9BT,0.pdf



Rgds,

Alec



-----Original Message-----
From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] 
On Behalf Of Øystein Skarholm
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 11:32 AM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] concrete submarine yacht - building cost

Carsten

Is the Euronaut simple to use as you see it? Can it be one man operated a sunny 
afternoon or does it take planning and several people engaged in operation ?

By the way, please if you have time and feel for it, take a look at my homepage. 
Under the button GALLERY you will find some pictures of the shaft sealing. Do 
you think the patent is ok ?

www.ubat.no

On 2/13/07, MerlinSub@t-online.de <MerlinSub@t-online.de> wrote:
> > For me the boat has to be simple to use and cheap to operate.
>
> Yes Sir! Thats exact the reason I build the Euronaut.
> Simple to use and cheap to operate...
>
> Original I looked for a cheap old military one..
> ..but they all are not simple to use and not cheap to operate.
>
> ;-)
>
> If you want to make recreatinal diving in 600 feet deep this 70 tonner 
> is the minimum configuration..
>
> I think there is no border for recreational. If it is private build, with 
private money and with no commerzial background - it is a Psub..
>
> best regards Carsten
>
> "Øystein Skarholm" <skarholm@gmail.com> schrieb:
> > If the boat gets to large than it is no longer an recreational boat.
> > For me the boat has to be simple to use and cheap to operate.
> >
> > On 2/13/07, clientes@tolimared.com <clientes@tolimared.com> wrote:
> > > Hello Carsten,
> > >
> > > Just add some 6633 Euro for each 20 tons of displacement.
> > > If you have a double hull in mind make it some 8000 Euro /20ton 
> > > for increased complexity in building. I can make you bulkheads. 
> > > What is about the deep diving sphere pressure hull boat we talked about ?
> > >
> > > Kindest Regards,
> > > Wilfried
> > >
> > > Oystein - i can get you a engine in and bring it to norway with 
> > > the golf stream- Ben Franklin did that...but make it bigger than 10m ...
> > >
> > > Kindest Regards,
> > > Wilfried
> > >
> > > > Carsten
> > > >
> > > > Don't you have a huge thing going on enouh? he he The only 
> > > > problem I see is the cost of shipping that thing all around the 
> > > > world to Norway.
> > > >
> > > > On 2/12/07, MerlinSub@t-online.de <MerlinSub@t-online.de> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Wau... thats cheap. Carsten
> > > > >
> > > > > Yust for my pleasure what will be a hull 16 x 2,5 x 0,18 ? 
> > > > > Including 3
> > > > pressuretight hempispharical bulheads..
> > > > >
> > > > > regards Carsten
> > > > >
> > > > > <clientes@tolimared.com> schrieb:
> > > > > > Hello Oystein,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I can do it for 6633 Euro.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > A submarine Hull 20 tons displacement 9m x 2,5 m 18 cm 
> > > > > > hullthickness
> > > > > >
> > > > > > (http://tolimared.com/submarine)
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Kindest Regards,
> > > > > > Wilfried
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hwat costs are we talking about. Complete sub like your 
previous.?.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > On 2/12/07, Øystein Skarholm <skarholm@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > > > > > > On 2/12/07, clientes@tolimared.com <clientes@tolimared.com> 
wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Hello Øystein,
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > concrete submarine yacht - building time
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > I can have a hull ready in less than 3 months and ship 
> > > > > > > > > it wherever
> > > > you
> > > > > > > want...
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Wilfried
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > -------------
> > > > > > > > > Øystein Skarholm / psubs.org / 11 Feb 2007
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > concrete submarine yacht - want to build one -
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > How long time will it take you to build a hull 10 
> > > > > > > > > meters long 2,5 meter Dia with 200mm thick walls?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
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> > > > > > > > > PSUBS.ORG
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> > > > > PSUBS.ORG
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> > > > > 603-529-1100
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--
Best Regards
Øystein Skarholm




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