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 Alec, 
  
   Three months for 
one......hmmm.....that must have tested your patience a little   
:)  31" x 3/8" sounds like a pretty tough hull.  What depth are you 
planning on getting to ? 
  
   I have been looking over the archives 
to find information on the ribs / installation but couldn't find anything.  
I was quite surprised as I figured this was a very important, and likely very 
difficult step, as you have pointed out.  If somebody has it "figured out" 
how to do it the best, that would be valuable information. 
  
   I wonder if installing the first rib 
closest to the end cap, or in the middle would be best.  I am going to 
guess that the middle one would be the better approach and work out to both ends 
from there. 
  
Myles. 
  ----- Original Message -----  
  
  
  Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2005 12:02 
  PM 
  Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Inner / 
  Outer support ribs. 
  
  
  Myles I should tell you getting those stiffeners in was far and away 
  the hardest part of building Solo. It took me three months of work to get the 
  first ring in. But it certainly worked as a method for stretching the hull 
  into roundness. This is a 3/8 thick hull of only 31" outside diameter, so not 
  very stretchy. If I remember correctly, the out of roundness prior to 
  inserting the stiffeners was about half an inch difference between maximum and 
  minimum diameters. With stiffeners in, I can't detect any out of 
  roundness. 
    
  My method was as follows: Roll the ring in along the greater 
  diameter, then try to straighten it until normal to the hull. I tried 
  hydraulics and failed. I tried icing the rings and heating the hull, but that 
  failed too. The latter is what Phil Nuytten does, but I presume his hull 
  cylinders are much higher quality (rounder) than mine. What worked for me 
  in the end was a very long lever built to hook onto the end of the hull 
  cylinder, chained to 1/2" holes drilled in the stiffener web. I built a 
  motorized table for my mill-drill machine, with which I could gradually 
  reduce the diameter of the stiffener by a few thousandths after each 
  unsuccessful attempt. I did this lots of times, on each iteration getting 
  closer to straightening the stiffener all the way. Of course, the hard one is 
  the first stiffener, and after that they go fast. 
    
  rgds, 
   Alec 
  
    
    
    Dan, 
      
       The point I never considered was 
    using the rings to force the hull into roundness.  I can definately see 
    where this would be easier when putting them on the inside as they could be 
    pounded / hammered / tapped into place, spot welded, and then secured when 
    all was well.  That answers another question in that the rings are to 
    be pre made and not welded onto the pressure hull when building them.  
    In that way, the roundness of the rings could be made true before 
    installing.  As for attaching things to the rings inside the hull, is 
    it safe to drill 1/4" holes for bolts or is that comprimising the 
    integretity of the ring too much ? ...or would welding mounting 
    brackets to the rings and then drilling the holes be preferable 
    ? 
      
       On the K350, does the design just 
    eliminate the ring where the tower is, the tower collar providing the 
    strength in that area ? 
      
       Thanks for making my mind up for 
    me Dan. 
      
    Myles. 
    
      ----- Original Message -----  
      
      
      Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 
      9:10 PM 
      Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Inner / 
      Outer support ribs. 
      
  
      Myles, 
        
      A K-350 has ribs spaced 12 inches apart, and 
      at the ends where the hull tube meets the end caps, they are 10 inches 
      apart leaving two inches of hull tube sticking past the last frames 
      to weld the end caps to.   
        
      True, the frame would be easier to apply 
      to the outside of the hull, for convenience of working, but it's easier to 
      spring the hull into better roundness when working from the inside.  
      No rolled tube is perfect round.   You have to work it 
      as your installing the framing.  
        
      Ribs on the outside give you more places for 
      corrosion to attack, but do increase the inside room.  Ribs on the 
      inside cramp the space in the sub, but are a convenient place to clamp 
      things that you want to add later on, without welding on the finished sub 
      hull. 
        
      Dan H.   
      
        ----- Original Message -----  
        
        
        Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 
        6:11 PM 
        Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Inner / 
        Outer support ribs. 
        
  
        I understand that support ribs offer the 
        same strength increase whether they are on the inside or outside of the 
        pressure hull.  As I am planning on adding fairing, I am also 
        considering puting the ribs on the outside to free up interior 
        space.  Is this a good idea ?  In other words, is it easier to 
        install the ribs when they are on the outside ?  Are the ribs 
        pre-made and then welded on or built right onto the pressure 
        hull ?  I can't seem to figure out the ribs, how they are made, and 
        the best way to install them.  My pressure hull is of a similar 
        design as the K350 36" x 1/4 " x 8'.  I am considering a rib 
        spacing of 18". 
          
        Myles.     
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