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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Newbie needs help



Hi Chip.
 
You asked if fiberglass might be an option for your sub.
 
I can't help you with that question because I do not know the relative strength of fiberglass for a given pressure. But instead of building wooden stringers and laborously building the sub from scratch, a kevlar wing tank might be an option. I know a fellow here in Florida
 
that bought a lot of them from government surplus and sold them on e bay and continues to sell them at a flea market for $200.00
 
Not sure if he has any left at this point but I do have his phone number. He told me the tanks are 15 feet long, they were either 1/2 or 1 inch thick kevlar (not sure), and they have tail fins on them horizontally but not vertically like a bomb has.
 
I saw a picture of him sitting on one of the tanks and it appeared there was plenty of room for a person to sit IN the tank if cockpits were cut out. I'm not sure if you wanted a albacore torpedo shaped design or not, but if you do this ready made hull approach might
 
be a work saver. You could contact government surplus dealers in your area and see what kind of wing tanks they have. Just a thought.
 
Kindest Regards,
 
Bill Akins.
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From: Akins
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 6:11 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Newbie needs help

Hi Chip.
 
The Kent Markham silent runner 2 ambient sub uses two thrusters built into the dive planes on either side of the sub.
 
Kent told me that the thrusters operate like you suggested, like driving a tank. Kill one thruster and the other turns the sub, or even reverse one thruster
 
and it helps the other thruster turn the sub better. In THEORY. But it actual practice Kent said it was very hard to turn the sub since the subs forward enertia made it very hard to turn using this system even when he reversed a thruster.
 
Kent told me a rudder or rotating rear thruster would have turned his sub much better than the system he used and you propose to use. Here is a link to view Kent's silent runner 2  http://www.scubatow.com/sub2.html     
 
You mentioned you wanted to fly the sub underwater like a plane. Have you considered using ailerons to bank the sub? You could attach them in with the dive planes or even have them seperate from the dive planes.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Kindest regards,
 
Bill Akins.
----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Will
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 4:54 PM
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Newbie needs help

Hello everyone,

 

I would like to introduce myself. My name is Chip Will. First let me apologize for the length of this email. Just wanted to give as much info as I could. 

 

I have a concept for a submersible that has been kicking around my head for a few years and I am ready to start putting the design down on paper (or on the computer as it is these days). What need now is some guidance from the souls that have gone before me.

 

A little background on myself, and my abilities. I am a certified Scuba diver (18+ years) and Scuba Instructor. I have very good mechanical skills, which include some machine work, welding, and excellent electrical  (low voltage) skills. My shop is set up with a small mill and lathe as well as gas and MIG welder and about every tool Sears/Craftman sells (my wife hates that part).

 

The whole idea behind this sub is to ?fly? underwater. This will be a purely sport sub with only fun in mind. I live on Monterey Bay in California. We have some of the most beautiful cold water diving in the world. I have always wanted to be able to fly through the kelp forests.

 

My concept is for a one person, 1 to 1.5 ATM (I?ll explain this one in a minute) submersible. It will have a max depth of approx 100-130 ft. It will have a streamlined hull with the pilot sitting in a reclining position with their head under a streamlined canopy. 4 thrusters mounted two per side, one forward and one back will provide propulsion. The thrusters will be able to rotate on the horizontal (pitch) axis. Two levers on either side of the pilot control the pitch, sort of like a tank control. Pushing the right lever forward will pitch one or both (selectable) right side thrusters down, pulling back will pitch them up. The same with the left lever controlling the left thrusters. The sub will be adjusted manually through valves to neutral or slightly negative buoyancy at the surface before the dive. Depth control will be achieved by use of inverted ?wings? or air foils, as in the Deep Flight subs. The wings will be mounted on the thruster rotation shafts and rotate with the thrusters. I have not decided if they will be inboard or outboard of the thrusters. Foot pedals will control rudders.

 

I do not want to have to deal with CO2 scrubbers or any O2 replenishment. I have a fear of using pure O2 in a sealed environment with any electrical equipment. I don?t want the headaches of regulating it. I plan on using air from two scuba tanks, one with a standard scuba regulator for emergency, and one to replenish air supply. I have an initial concept of a control system that maintains the air pressure in the sub at about 1.5 ATM. A control board would allow air to flow from the scuba tank at a set pressure of about 7 PSI at preset intervals. I will have to calculate the interval once I know the hull volume. To keep the pressure in the sub from getting to high, the same board will control a high volume air pump to discharge some of the air in the sub externally through a series of check valves. As fresh air is discharged into the hull interior at the front, stale air will be pumped out the rear. This way I can maintain the pressure at roughly 1.5 ATM. That is the equivalent of about 16.5 FSW. Most scuba table don?t even recognize that shallow of a depth as a risk for Nitrogen Absorption. I will have a dive computer onboard to watch for decompression issues. I don?t see most dives going for more than an hour or two at most.

 

That should give you a general idea of what I want to accomplish. There are two things I need advise on at this stage before I go any further. First is hull material. I have read a lot of opinions and seen all the hull calculation tables. Simple math tells me that if I want a max depth of 130 FSW, I need to withstand absolute ATM pressure of about 72 PSI on the hull. Add in a 2X safety factor (250 FSW) and the pressure increases to 130 PSI. My initial thought was going with a steel hull.  Good strength but heavy and hard to get the real streamlined hull I would like. A second thought was Fiberglass. If I can build a wood frame (strictly hardwoods) with stringers going several directions for strength, with multiple fiberglass layers up to 3/8? ? ½? thick. That seems to me it would with stand the pressures at shallow depths. Fiberglas would allow me to work with the more streamlined shapes I have in mind. I would not do any of this of course without doing all the necessary calculations to see that it was safe. I do plan on putting in an auto safety feature. If at any point the depth exceeds a preset limit (probably 150 FSW) a sensor will trigger a valve to inflate an adequate size lift bag that will automatically deploy and bring the sub to the surface.

 

So?. My first question is:

Should fiberglass even be considered as hull material?

 

My second question is:

What does anyone think about the air replenishment idea?

 

Sorry for the length of this email. I figured it would save time on emailing questions and answers back and forth if I put as much info as I could in the first email. 

 

Chip Will