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Hi Stan.
I don't understand. Could you please explain a
little more. Since my wires from my batteries will go thru a flexible conduit to
the motor, how could check valves stop the seepage
of air or hydrogen from seeping thru the
strands of wire and into the battery pod? What I am describing is air or hydrogen under equalization pressure actually
seeping under the insulation of the wires and between
the the wire stands from the motor housing and into
the battery pod when it comes out the other end of the insulation. Perhaps I am
not understanding the proper function of the check valves you are
describing.
Kindest Regards,
Bill Akins.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 9:55
PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Wetsub
carrier water transport systems
I would think inline one-way check valves could isolate the
components so no hydrogen rich air from the batteries can enter the motor
housings. Perhaps you could use one supply line with the batteries
check-valved and downstream from the motor, but I think two separate
check-valved ambient supply lines would be best to isolate the
components. The downside is that check valves will create some pressure
drop in the ambient supply line, so pressurization will lag behind by a few
psi during descent. Or so I suppose...
Stan
In a
message dated 1/25/2005 3:09:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, "Akins" <lakins1@tampabay.rr.com>
writes:
>It could possibly be if I were not going to use hydrolators
and hydrocaps which absorb any hydrogen and convert it into water.
>Plus
although there are trace amounts of hydrogen made during discharge, most ot
the hydrogen is made when you charge and
>I will be using the forced air
while charging and not running the motor at that time as well. But good
thinking though Vance.
>Those hydrolators and hydrocaps had BETTER work.
Lol. Nobody ever says subs are safe. Even just scuba diving isn't
safe.
>Heck, living isn't safe, it means you're going to die. Lol. But I
will do my best to make it as safe as POSSIBLE.
>
>I guess it
would be possible to seperate them. By NOT equalizing the pod and plugging the
ends of the tubes that carry the wires from
>the pod to the motor, and
then carefully epoxying each end of each and every single wire to insure there
was an airtight seal between the
>wire's insulation and the wire strands
so to preclude any air or hydrogen leakage thru the strands. I could crimp
fittings onto the end of the wires
>and then carefully expoxy over the
insulation and the strands leaving only the round connector fitting not
epoxied and insuring there was no missed
>spots where air could leak
thru the strand. I probably could do that and will further consider it. But
for now unless I change my mind I am
>banking on the hydrolator and
hydrocaps. But again good thinking Vance. Keep helping me ok? I can use all I
can get.
>
>
>Kindest Regards,
>Bill
Akins.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ron
>
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 11:14 AM
> Subject: RE:
[PSUBS-MAILIST] Wetsub carrier water transport systems
>
>
>
Isn't having your motor and battery in the same air comp loop an invitation
for a hydrogen gas
explosion?
>
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Akins
>
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2005 11:22 PM
> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Wetsub carrier water transport
systems
>
>
> Hi Vance.
>
> You
asked..."Speaking of which, how are you protecting the penetrations and
electrical system?"
>
> I plan to use thru the hull stainless
steel waterproof fittings for the penetrations. Flexible tubing for the wires
with waterproof connections at the ends, and fuses as you
suggested.
>
> You also asked..."It seems to me that the
equalization process is more trouble than it is worth for the pod, which ought
to be strong enough to dive where you expect to dive"
>
> Since I
am going to equalize the motor with air, and since the motor is connected to
the battery pod via the tubing holding the cables, I am really not going to
any extra trouble to
> equalize the pod. I know the strong pvc could
take the depths I plan to dive at but it doesn't hurt to equalize the pod
also. It would actually be hard to NOT equalize the pod when my
>
equalized motor has wiring going to the pod and even if I tried to block off
any air from the motor from getting into the pod it would seep thru the wires
themselves. So equalizing the motor
> also pretty much automatically
equalizes the battery pod in my case. As always I appreciate your's and
everyone else input and advice. Putting our heads together always helps us
brainstorm and
> think things thru. I truly appreciate all your helpful
posts along with everyone elses here.
>
> Kindest Regards,
>
Bill Akins.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
VBra676539@aol.com
> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
>
Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2005 11:06 AM
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST]
Wetsub carrier water transport systems
>
>
> Launch and
Retrieval Platform--they were (are?) towed aluminum catamaran rafts with
grating decks and big ballast systems. Two divers piloted it, with the sub on
deck. Take the LRP down to 60 feet or so, release the sub, surface. To go
home, repeat in reverse. Sort of like what you have in mind, only they did the
sub transfer underwater, where there was no wave action. Mucho important when
you are trying to mate 5 tons of submarine to 5 tons of raft. Banging be a bad
thing, I can assure you.
>
> Green gas beeze chlorine, yes. Pretty
tough on the fire fighters, who were hoping like hell that the hydrogen we
couldn't see was going to be nice and vent out of there without spitting
Trojan batteries as projectiles. I've seen a pod go like that (in the shop at
Perry) and brother, let me tell you, it ain't a pretty sight.
>
>
Leak detectors are very simple in theory. It's just a little DC open-circuit
deal that closes when shorted by water in the bilges or wherever and lights
the light. Take a little block of PVC, attach two stiff wires a quarter inch
or so apart, then glue or screw it on the inside pod bottom so the wires just
clear the surface (1/8" to 1/4"). Then run a pair of wires from it, through
the pressure vessel wall, and out to your cockpit. Make a little cannister of
PVC or acrylic or something, as this is a wet sub, so things will stay dry.
Inside, power it through switches with a couple of 9-volt batteries to LEDs or
something, and a buzzer. Don't use the sub's main power system, as you want to
know about a leak whether you are powered up or not. Keep it totally isolated
and independant. Goop everything down so errant splashes and condensation
won't cause any problems, and you're in business. Total cost, with batteries,
$17.36 or thereabouts. (Okay, I'm guessing. It might go 20!
bucks).
>
> Speaking of which, how are you protecting the
penetrations and electrical system? If you do have a leak, and a major short,
straight cables will toast a hole in whatever is handy and blow you out of the
water. A simple solution is to build in-line fuses. Size them to maximum draw
for the system and cable, then cast them into PVC tubes using 3M goop or
something non-flammable. A major short, such as you might expect with seawater
intrustion, will pop the fuses and reduce your problem to the pod itself. We
may all bow our heads now and pray that it never happens, but should it come
about, at least you'd know what to run FROM!
>
> As for vents, I'd
use SS fittings, maybe a 1/4" going in, and a 3/8" or 1/2" going out. Put
bulkhead shutoffs near or directly into the pod, and valves up high. Hook a
regulator to a gas supply, attach it to the goes-in valve, start a slow flow
(just a little air action will do it) and you have your vent system. If you
plumb it high on the boat, then you could charge in the water, no problem.
Also, have the input line and output lines on opposite ends of the pod. You
could do it with both fittings in one penetration, just run tubing from the
input line (inside the pod) to the front.
>
> Compensation is
another deal. If you were talking about oil, I could probably help, but I've
never used air to do it. It seems to me that the equalization process is more
trouble than it is worth for the pod, which ought to be strong enough to dive
where you expect to dive. Psubs has some really creative guys who have
experience with this, so I'm betting someone will help you
out.
>
> If air compensation causes you problems, then you might
want to consider modifying the motor housing to improve its capabilities. That
will take some machine work. You'd want to cut a proper O-ring groove in the
sections, and root out enough metal around the prop shaft to allow a pump seal
of appropriate size to be installed. It isn't all that complicated a process,
and Dan H. has a whole machine shop up there in Pennsylvania with about four
feet of snow in the parking lot. Send it to him. He hasn't got anything else
to do, anyway-----Right, Dan?
>
> I'm looking forward to seeing
this critter. Couldn't find you on the moki pages, so maybe they haven't
posted it yet. I'll keep an eye out. At present, I've got half a dozen Spanish
speaking roofers banging away at my new shingles, so that's keeping me
busy.
>
> Best Regards,
> Vance
>
>
>
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Anti-Virus.
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1/21/2005
>
>
>
>
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