Thanks Ray,
I agree totally. 600 should be a minimum. My minimum is 1000 but thats just me. But it would be safer to build a real submarine instead of the SCUBA thing. For G sake guys they are after all just dry suits with thrusters. I cant see where a sub built for 2 or 3 hundred feet would be much more expensive than one made just to keep the water out. FRP will do the job and has been used in ABS boats down to 2000 feet. All you need to do is build one with out the holes to let the water in. In all truth building a 1 ATM sub is dangerous. It is not even as organized as technical diving which encompasses depths of 120 feet to 300 feet and more. The equipment used in TECK diving will coast around 3000 to 4000 for a good rig. The addition of some kind of tube with motors to swim around in will just complicate an already complicated proses. I feel it may seem safer to a new builder because they are using a life
support system that they may be familiar with and that is not a good reason. The life support system in a real submarine is so simple and easy to operate that it may many times be considered too simple and thought to be not true. If some one is going to build a 1 ATM boat they could certainly spend the money on some high end gear, dry suit, re-breather, and one hell of a scooter. Oh well, just my ideas for to day. Dave in Florida
Ray Keefer <Ray.Keefer@Sun.COM> wrote:
True.
However if you are going to build a 1atm, why not spend a little more in
materials and go beyond scuba depth. Say 200, 300, or 600 feet.
See http://www.psubs.org/faq.html#basicdesign for a discussion of the
trade offs between ambient and 1atm designs.
Regards,
Ray
Fly Deep wrote:
> Just a thought...I hear about a lot of ambient water vehicles that could
> be built. If these vessels are only being used to a SCUBA depth..say
> 100 feet than it is just as easy to build a really submarine that can
> withstand a depth of 100 feet and you don't need to concern your self
> with all the SCUBA stuff. It's only 50 PSI of pressure and can be dealt
> with very easily. David in florida
>
> */Ray Keefer /* wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Oil and air compensation is
used to keep the pressure differential
> between the ambient water pressure at any depth and the internal motor
> case pressure to managable limits. Limits of what? The motor housing is
> typically steel. The real limit is the motor shaft seal. A seal around
> the motor shaft is what really keeps water out.
>
> For instance Minn Kota motors are good to an atmosphere or so. Any
> deeper you have to compensate the motor housing in some manner or the
> pressure differential will force water to seep in through the seal.
>
> Take a look at Busby's book for a general discussion on compensation.
>
> Regards,
> Ray
>
> Pierre Poulin wrote:
> > Hi Simon,
> >
> > You can either use mineral and/or electric oil inside the motor
> or use a
> > scuba regulator to have ambient pressure inside you motor.
> > !
> > hope it help.
>
>
> > Pierre Poulin
> > "building a dry-ambient sub"
> >
> >
> >
> >> From: SIMON WALKDEN
> >> Reply-To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> >> To: Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org
> >> Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] submerged motors
> >> Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 11:07:19 +1200
> >>
> >> Hi all,
> >>
> >> I'm currently in the process of estimating costs and materials for
> >> building my own personal sub. I have, however, become stuck on the
> >> section of propulsion.
> >>
> >> How is it possible to have moving external parts, submerged, without
> >> them being flooded with water and ruined?
> >>
> >> If anyone is aware of a website which gives some insight, or has any
> >> helpful tips, any input would be much appreciated.
>
>>
> >> -Simon
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
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