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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Re:Stainless in aluminum
That is an option but I wouldn't feel confident in the integrity of the patch. It's much better if the whole hull cures at the same time.
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: <atozed@juno.com>
To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2004 7:11 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Re:Stainless in aluminum
> Not completely unrelated to subs, coming soon...is talk like a pirate
> day! http://www.talklikeapirate.com/piratehome.html
>
> Brian-
> Why not plug them with cement? Your form will have rebar, wire, and mesh,
> right? Leave 6" gaps in the rebar where you'll want access. Cut away the
> mesh and remove it. Cut but leave the wire, bend in out of your way.
> Cement the inside, bend the wire back and cover with mesh. Cement over
> the access hole, you won't need it again will you?
> Even if you did, knocking the patch out with a hammer and redoing it
> might be easier than what you're thinking. BTW I'm not sure exactly what
> that is, so maybe this idea makes no sense.
>
> -Peter Korwin
>
>
> On Sun, 29 Aug 2004 17:16:03 -0700 "Brian Cox" <ojaibees@ojai.net>
> writes:
> > Thanks, I'm going to need quite a number of aluminum access ports
> > which will be approximately 6" in diameter ( big enough to put your
> > arm in) going through my ferro-cement soft ballast chamber. I've
> > decided to construct the thing in two pieces and then weld in back
> > together and then plaster the inside using arm hole access ports.
> > The holes will be plugged with the aluminum fittings, once
> > everything has cured.
> >
> > Brian
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Gregory B. Snyder" <snyder@mnrad.com>
> > To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
> > Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2004 3:43 PM
> > Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Re:Stainless in aluminum
> >
> >
> > > Vance -
> > > I always lear a lot from your posts.
> > > Thanks-
> > > Greg
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> > > [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of
> > > VBra676539@aol.com
> > > Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2004 5:17 PM
> > > To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> > > Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Re:Stainless in aluminum
> > >
> > >
> > > Brian,
> > >
> > > Maybe Hugo will catch this question and help me out here with some
> > > product
> > > names, but I can tell you that the answer to your question is yes
> > and
> > > no.
> > >
> > > At HBOI, we used a stainless steel insert which was threaded
> > inside and
> > > out.
> > > Bore the hole to the insert size, tap, screw the insert itself
> > into the
> > > aluminum with a mandrel and then hammer in the locking dogs. The
> > insert
> > > should be
> > > well bedded in one of the super whammydine Loctites (or epoxy or
> > > something) in
> > > an effort to exclude seawater from the outer threads. It's going
> > to
> > > become a
> > > permanent fixture anyway (as you might well imagine) so you might
> > as
> > > well nail
> > > it in there the best way you know how.
> > >
> > > The inserts come in all sizes, so that their inside thread size
> > will
> > > match
> > > whatever bolt you have in mind. The trick to using them
> > successfully is
> > > to
> > > grease the bolt with nonsoluble grease every time you install it,
> > and I
> > > mean grease
> > > it GOOD!!! Otherwise, and as I remember it, about the only
> > otherwise we
> > > ever
> > > found, was that salt would creep in there and build on the
> > > threads--which gave
> > > you a twisted off bolt head, more often than not, when you tried
> > to pull
> > > it
> > > later.
> > >
> > > One more hint: Don't use machine threads for this kind of
> > application.
> > > 1/4 20
> > > is about as fine as you'd want to risk. The coarser threads, when
> > being
> > > reluctant on removal, are easier to rock back and forth, thus
> > easier to
> > > persuade
> > > out into the light.
> > >
> > > We used Almag hatches in the early days at Perry and had to fight
> > > corrosion
> > > quite a bit, and as I have said somewhere (somewhen?) else on this
> > page,
> > > we
> > > used magnesium anodes on the aluminum dive planes and rudder
> > assemblies.
> > > I have
> > > actually WATCHED them corrode, with fumes streaming off and little
> > bits
> > > of
> > > metal flaking into the water, when a DC circuit shorted to ground.
> > >
> > > You can, of course, bolt straight into aluminum, but the damage
> > will
> > > happen
> > > on the aluminum end, and you probably won't see it until it gets
> > pretty
> > > bad--and it won't be pretty--just pretty bad. Beware. Some days
> > it's
> > > like diving in
> > > battery acid. A single dive with a pesky short can cause some BIG
> > > problems.
> > >
> > > Best Regards,
> > > Vance
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
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