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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Persistence Test II



Thanks for the info Dan !   I noticed at West Marine a while back that they had an adjustable pitch props.  Maybe that could be an option? I think they were made from a high quality plastic.
 
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan H.
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2004 5:16 PM
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Persistence Test II

Up date on testing Persistence.  
It's lengthy. 
Read at your OWN RISK!
 
Today I did the second wet testing on Persistence.  In the first test I found several things that needed tweaking and had my first floating experience.  In this test, like the last, the sub was tether to the trailer where it could float a little, but only a little, above the deck of the trailer. 
 
The most needed corrections found in the last test was repitching and reducing the propellers.  All three of Persistence's propellers are three bladed.  The rear and largest prop, is bronze.  I made a jig to hold it, and a tool to fit the blades with a three foot long T-handle. With the prop firmly held in the jig it was relatively easy to twist each blade by hand with the three feet of leverage.  And I'm not that tough of a guy either!   I twisted them flatter to reduce the pitch. The harder part was twisting each blade the same amount.  Another jig to measure with did the trick. 
 
After reangling the blades I put the prop on a shaft mounted in a lathe and spun it, tapping a little here and there to true it up as close as I can.  After that, I turned some off the back side of the prop the reduce the blade area and then hand ground each blades edges back to what I thought looked like a proper shape.  After the reshaping, I used the lathe and a long shaft to balance it at 2000 RPM.  The job took several hours and "persistence."  (Did I really say that?) 
 
It's was only a guess on how much to alter the prop but I got lucky.   Today's test found it was exactly correct.  I couldn't get it any closer if I knew what I was doing.  Last time the thruster drew 110 amps and it should have been 70 amps.  This time it drew 69 amps on the nose.
 
I cooked the speed controller last time testing.  The 110 amps was just to much.  I thought I had the needed parts in the shop but didn't.  They are now on order and may be here for the launch.  If not, it's full power, or off.  It's now HOT WIRED to the relays!
 
I altered the smaller side thrusters similarly.  They are both aluminum props and, as I found out, they don't take a bending as much as the bronze ones do.  I bent them a little but not much since I started a small crack in one of the blades.  Nothing detrimental but a good warning.  These props are of the weedless type so they have long tails. I removed some of the tail and reshaped the new end but apparently not enough.  They drew 30 amps last time and now draw 27 amps.  I need to trim them down to 20 amps.  Guess I'll reduce them some more.
 
The air leaks I found around the bolts that passed through the MBT's last test were all fixed with some silicone gasket sealer.  No problems there now. 
 
I also added some weights to the interior of the sub and am now closer to a diving weight.  On this test it floated lower in the water and settled firm to the trailer deck with about eight inches of the conning tower above the surface.  The last test I couldn't get it to settle that deep with all ballast tanks flooded.  I now have about 500 pounds of removable lead inside the sub.  I may add some of that to the drop weights later.  In hind sight, I could have added eight inches to each battery pod and two more batteries. 
 
I built my MBT venting according the Kittredge design.  A design that was used of both K-250's and K-350's so I'm pretty sure it's as it should be.  But, when I flood the MBT's for the first time they vent smoothly and evenly.  They vent well, as long as you keep the sub trim.  I found I have to monitor both forward and aft tanks as they get closer to full other wise the sub pitches forward or aft trapping the remaining air in the higher tank.  I'm guessing more practice at keeping trim will fix this problem. 
 
The other thing I noticed was that ones a tank was totally filled and water runs into the lines it doesn't vent as smoothly the second time.  If I refill the tanks with air it expels the water but if only a little air is added to level off, it doesn't vent properly.  I think I'm trapping water in some parts of the piping and unless I generate enough pressure to force it out, it's trapping air behind it.  As I said, Captain Kittredge used this design for years so It's probably something I'm doing but It does point out the need to never let vent lines trap water.  I hope practice solves the annoyance. 
 
So there you have it, if I haven't bored you to death already.  The LONG story!
 
I'm still on for an actual launch on Sunday June 6th.  
 
Thanks for listening.  I would really appreciate any recommendations or advice from anyone diving a K boat.  Geez, I'd sure hate to flip the darn thing over or sit stuck to the bottom on the maiden voyage.   :-( 
Dan H.