Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] A question or two on the Kittredge plans...

["Dale's" <heinzind@cadvision.com>]

-----Original Message-----
From: John R. Farrington <jrf@austin.ibm.com>
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Date: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 1:11 PM
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] A question or two on the Kittredge plans...


>
>For those that have built one of the Kittredge subs,
>I've got a quick question or two.
>
>When building from the plans, did you stick precisely
>to the plans, or did you simply use the plans for the
>major portions of the sub, and add your own personal
>touches?
>
>ie:  Use the plans as a guide for the attachment of
>     the conning tower, reinforcement rings, etc, but
>     perhaps you made the sub longer, moved the ballast
>     tanks to a different location, added/moved viewports
>     around, etc.
>
>I'm curious as to how rigidly one should follow the plans,
>as well as what degree of flexibility is allowed without
>compromising safety.
>
>I'd be interested in hearing from folks that may have thoughts
>like "I added this to mine", or "On my next one, I will
>probably change this".
>
>-John Farrington
>
>
>ps.  I came across this post in the archive, and just had
>     to comment:
>
>> Visualize Jack Nicholson in THE SHINING:  "Heeeeeeers JOHNNY!!!"  That's
me
>> in in search of things to make submarines out of.  (I had to make this
>> sub-related somehow!)
>>
>> ;-)
>>
>> Pat
>
>My girlfriend is getting sick of me pointing out
>"potential submarines" to her every time we drive by
>a train with tanker cars, gasoline trucks, large pieces
>of pipe, propane tanks, garbage cans, etc.  Oh well.  ;-)
>

I am building a K250.  I have kept to the plans as far as size of the sub,
the material, ribs, placement and number of ports, etc.  One thing I did
change was make the end caps thicker.. 3/8 as compared to 5/16 thick.  the
difference was because I could not readily find 5/16 thick.  The front
viewport is 2.5 inches thick, instead of  2 inches, and the dome is formed
from 1.5 inch acrylic, instead of 1 inch.  otherwise they are the same
outside size.   The valves inside are not exactally what he specified.. ,
and the air system is not as specified, although the function is exactally
the same as the plans..I have 2 redundant air systems inside, with stainless
lines and fittings for the most part..  the plans specify one adjustable
regulator, I used 2 re-built scuba 1st stage regulators, that are set at 175
lbs/sq/in.  I used toggle valves, for the ballast controlls, instead of
henry valves for a couple of reasons.  I think the toggle valves will work
easier, and they provide a relief blow off (into the ballast tanks I might
add) in case of a regulator failure.  I also used a different speed
controller, and used trolling motors instead of the units he specified..  I
have yet to decide if this was good or bad...  Ill see if it works good or
is a pain in the a**  (I am going to pressure compensate the trolling
motors, and everyone says that is a pain in the a**).   If I was to do it
again, I would do everything exactally as I have done.. which is very close
to what George designed.. after I use it for a while, I might change my
mind.  (move variable ballast outside, move batteries outside..are about the
only 2 things that spring to mind)
hope this answers your questions

dale