From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Sun May 2 09:43:18 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (Philippe Robert via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 09:43:18 -0400 Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-250 paint In-Reply-To: <591406371.1393313.1619798609188@mail.yahoo.com> References: <480896690.2820707.1619741060497@mail.yahoo.com> <339695752.2863052.1619750258837@mail.yahoo.com> <1801093816.2935007.1619787603641@mail.yahoo.com> <591406371.1393313.1619798609188@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thank you for all of your's advice ! Le ven. 30 avr. 2021 ? 12:04, via Personal_Submersibles < personal_submersibles at psubs.org> a ?crit : > Here's some practical stuff if you've never done this before. Paint the > hatch. Make sure it's sufficiently protected. Pay special attention when > painting the groove itself. You don't want too much build up, especially in > the inner corners. Once the paint has cured, put on a sweatband and apply > elbow grease to the o-ring groove using fine grit sandpaper. Do it by > hand. What you want to do is work/sand/polish the paint down to pretty much > its minimal thickness without breaking through to the undercoat (or not > much, anyway). If you think the sanding has thinned your paint coating too > much, then wipe the groove down with solvent, thin a little more paint in a > paper cup, and add a layer back to the groove with an artist's brush. Let > it hard cure again. Then get the sandpaper back out. You are looking to > have a very smooth surface in there. You'll get a matte finish, rather than > shiny, which will help hold the grease if nothing else. You can't depend on > the original application for smoothness. Once she's slick to the touch, > clean carefully, and apply a little of your favorite o-ring grease. Then > grease the o-ring and install. You're done. It doesn't hurt to pull the > o-ring if the sub will be laid up between operations. Wipe with a very > clean cloth. Re-grease groove and o-ring using your bare hands so you can > feel any grit that might have been picked up. The sanding really isn't that > big a job on the bench, but it needs to be done, and carefully. Once you > get to that point, all you have to do is keep an eye on things, close the > hatch, and go diving. All the Perry boats had painted o-ring grooves and > Monel mating surfaces, and all of them got the extra elbow grease to polish > those grooves to a fair-the-well. Never had one leak. Ever. And because we > were fussy about the maintenance, I never saw a speck of rust in there, > even after a hard season. Pretty good results for half an hour's work on > the bench. > Vance > > > -----Original Message----- > From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles < > personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > To: Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles > > Sent: Fri, Apr 30, 2021 9:00 am > Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-250 paint > > Yes you can paint the groove, but make sure the groove volume is still > sufficient for the o-ring plus appropriate percentage. > Check Parker O-Ring groove design chart. > Hank > > > On Thursday, April 29, 2021, 08:37:59 PM MDT, Jon Wallace via > Personal_Submersibles wrote: > > > Yes. Obviously make sure you have an even coat. The K-600 o-ring groove > is painted. > > Jon > > > > On Thursday, April 29, 2021, 08:19:24 PM EDT, Philippe Robert via > Personal_Submersibles wrote: > > > Is it suitable to paint the inside of the oring groove? > > Le jeu. 29 avr. 2021 8 h 05 p.m., Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles < > personal_submersibles at psubs.org> a ?crit : > > > http://www.psubs.org/design/paint.html > > PSUBS.ORG > > > > > > > On Thursday, April 29, 2021, 06:32:47 PM EDT, Philippe Robert via > Personal_Submersibles wrote: > > > Hi all, > > I was wondering what kind of paint I can use for the conning tower > sealing hatch. Did you use special stuff in the O'ring groove of the hatch ? > > Regards > > Philippe > _______________________________________________ > Personal_Submersibles mailing list > Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org > http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles > _______________________________________________ > Personal_Submersibles mailing list > Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org > http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles > > _______________________________________________ > Personal_Submersibles mailing list > Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org > http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles > _______________________________________________ > Personal_Submersibles mailing list > Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org > http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles > _______________________________________________ > Personal_Submersibles mailing list > Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org > http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles > _______________________________________________ > Personal_Submersibles mailing list > Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org > http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Wed May 5 17:05:25 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Wed, 5 May 2021 21:05:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] CruzPro ATU120BT Technical Report on Pressure test to 1, 200 fsw References: <1753208348.932881.1620248725635.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1753208348.932881.1620248725635@mail.yahoo.com> Psubbers, For the past few weeks Cliff Redus, Alan James, and myself have had discussions about Depth Sounding transducers that can interface into a PLC or a consumer grade microprocessor such as Arduino for Rpi.? There are two major purposes for having a sounding device, the first being it provides an opportunity to survey a dive site and confirm the water column is not greater than the capability of the submarine; the second is it provides altitude above bottom which is valuable information when diving at night or in low visibility waters. Our goal was to see if we could find an off-the-shelf transducer with a sounding range of 1000 feet from the surface as well as surviving to a submerged depth of 1000 feet.? We did find a transducer that met those specifications and Cliff performed extremely valuable controlled testing on the transducer to 533 psi or the equivalent of 1200 feet sea water.? These tests were successful and Cliff has prepared a detailed report of the project, the pressure testing, and the field testing that was involved. You can download and read the detailed report at?http://www.psubs.org/community/projects/cruzpro/cruzpro.pdf? or follow this path at the websitePSUBS -> PSUBS Community -> Community Projects -> CruzPro Depth Sounding Transducer Special thanks to Cliff Redus for testing work involved with this project. Discussion welcome... Jon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Thu May 6 03:07:24 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (irox via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Thu, 6 May 2021 00:07:24 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] CruzPro ATU120BT Technical Report on Pressure test to 1, 200 fsw Message-ID: <499722281.4307.1620284844601@wamui-lola.atl.sa.earthlink.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Thu May 6 09:11:29 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Thu, 6 May 2021 13:11:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] CruzPro ATU120BT Technical Report on Pressure test to 1, 200 fsw In-Reply-To: <499722281.4307.1620284844601@wamui-lola.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <499722281.4307.1620284844601@wamui-lola.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <1244653818.1151754.1620306689786@mail.yahoo.com> As far as I know, they have to be purchased from NZ. Jon On Thursday, May 6, 2021, 03:09:20 AM EDT, irox via Personal_Submersibles wrote: That's awesome!? Thanks to all who put work in to this. Is there a recommend place to buy the?CruzPro ATU120BT?(I'm thinking in the USA, but I guess there would be regional distributors) Thanks,? Ian. -----Original Message----- From: Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles Sent: May 5, 2021 2:05 PM To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] CruzPro ATU120BT Technical Report on Pressure test to 1, 200 fsw Psubbers, For the past few weeks Cliff Redus, Alan James, and myself have had discussions about Depth Sounding transducers that can interface into a PLC or a consumer grade microprocessor such as Arduino for Rpi.? There are two major purposes for having a sounding device, the first being it provides an opportunity to survey a dive site and confirm the water column is not greater than the capability of the submarine; the second is it provides altitude above bottom which is valuable information when diving at night or in low visibility waters. Our goal was to see if we could find an off-the-shelf transducer with a sounding range of 1000 feet from the surface as well as surviving to a submerged depth of 1000 feet.? We did find a transducer that met those specifications and Cliff performed extremely valuable controlled testing on the transducer to 533 psi or the equivalent of 1200 feet sea water.? These tests were successful and Cliff has prepared a detailed report of the project, the pressure testing, and the field testing that was involved. You can download and read the detailed report at?http://www.psubs.org/community/projects/cruzpro/cruzpro.pdf? or follow this path at the websitePSUBS -> PSUBS Community -> Community Projects -> CruzPro Depth Sounding Transducer Special thanks to Cliff Redus for testing work involved with this project. Discussion welcome... Jon _______________________________________________ Personal_Submersibles mailing list Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Fri May 7 18:50:54 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (Steve McQueen via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Fri, 7 May 2021 18:50:54 -0400 Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] CruzPro ATU120BT Technical Report on Pressure test to 1, 200 fsw In-Reply-To: <1753208348.932881.1620248725635@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1753208348.932881.1620248725635.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1753208348.932881.1620248725635@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Good job. Thanks. Steve On Wed, May 5, 2021, 5:06 PM Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles < personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote: > Psubbers, > > For the past few weeks Cliff Redus, Alan James, and myself have had > discussions about Depth Sounding transducers that can interface into a PLC > or a consumer grade microprocessor such as Arduino for Rpi. There are two > major purposes for having a sounding device, the first being it provides an > opportunity to survey a dive site and confirm the water column is not > greater than the capability of the submarine; the second is it provides > altitude above bottom which is valuable information when diving at night or > in low visibility waters. > > Our goal was to see if we could find an off-the-shelf transducer with a > sounding range of 1000 feet from the surface as well as surviving to a > submerged depth of 1000 feet. We did find a transducer that met those > specifications and Cliff performed extremely valuable controlled testing on > the transducer to 533 psi or the equivalent of 1200 feet sea water. These > tests were successful and Cliff has prepared a detailed report of the > project, the pressure testing, and the field testing that was involved. > > You can download and read the detailed report at > http://www.psubs.org/community/projects/cruzpro/cruzpro.pdf > > or follow this path at the website > PSUBS -> PSUBS Community -> Community Projects -> CruzPro Depth Sounding > Transducer > > Special thanks to Cliff Redus for testing work involved with this project. > > Discussion welcome... > > Jon > > _______________________________________________ > Personal_Submersibles mailing list > Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org > http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Tue May 18 20:34:26 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (Michael Holt via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 20:34:26 -0400 Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Do hybrid cars have any potential as power? Message-ID: <76e6023d-3155-2db4-3474-94cbf3343917@ohiohills.com> It seems a reasonable starting point, especially if there's a diesel version. I found the British canal boats can have electric motors -- sometimes two of them -- but they don't use batteries (or so it seems from the advertisement in a canal magazine). -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Wed May 19 22:46:14 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (Alan James via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Thu, 20 May 2021 02:46:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Do hybrid cars have any potential as power? In-Reply-To: <76e6023d-3155-2db4-3474-94cbf3343917@ohiohills.com> References: <76e6023d-3155-2db4-3474-94cbf3343917@ohiohills.com> Message-ID: <1075056652.580190.1621478774295@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Michael,?possibly not! It may be an over-kill adapting a car system, with its regenerative breaking & lithium batteries etc, when a more simple system would work.?I am watching the development of new technology batteries for the EV market though.?Would be nice to have some batteries with a range 4 x that of existing lithium batteries.?Alan On Wednesday, May 19, 2021, 02:30:06 PM GMT+12, Michael Holt via Personal_Submersibles wrote: It seems a reasonable starting point, especially if there's a diesel version. I found the British canal boats can have electric motors -- sometimes two of them -- but they don't use batteries (or so it seems from the advertisement in a canal magazine). _______________________________________________ Personal_Submersibles mailing list Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Mon May 24 04:05:15 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 09:05:15 +0100 Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Valve part 2 Message-ID: Hi all. I didn?t get any responses to my valve dilemma. I?ve made another video with the problem right at the start so you don?t have to watch it all. I would really appreciate some advice here, I?m not sure what to do. https://youtu.be/qJhVeFrUwWI Thanks James -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Mon May 24 08:00:05 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 12:00:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Valve part 2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1388187270.1039595.1621857605244@mail.yahoo.com> Hello James.? I found an online reference that states 1.5-2.5 turns after finger tight, for 2 inch pipe.? Another stated 3-6 threads engaged for proper tightness.? I think some teflon tape or pipe dope on the threads would get you some additional turns using a pipe wrench or spanner of some kind.? I think if it were mine I would put it together as is and then concoct some kind of pressure test from the outside to see if it's holding or not.? A pressure washer may work for that purpose although you only need it to hold 200 psi maximum.? Any idea what your household water pressure is?? That alone might give you a quick test for 100-200 feet. I would leave welding as the last resort. Jon On Monday, May 24, 2021, 04:07:23 AM EDT, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles wrote: Hi all.I didn?t get any responses to my valve dilemma.? I?ve made another video with the problem right at the start so you don?t have to watch it all.? I would really appreciate some advice here, I?m not sure what to do. https://youtu.be/qJhVeFrUwWI Thanks James_______________________________________________ Personal_Submersibles mailing list Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Mon May 24 08:19:33 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 12:19:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Valve part 2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <508130589.1045187.1621858773383@mail.yahoo.com> James, as this is a tapered pipe thread (NPT in states) , I would buy a pipe tap that fits this thread and cut the female threads a bit deeper by running the tap until it lands and then getting a few more turns on it with a wrench.? This should enable you to get a few more threads engaged.? As Jon notes, it would be easy to test joint by connecting a pressure washer with a bypass valve and a pressure gage and subject it to a pressure 1.5 times the design depth.? IF it is leak free, you are good to go. Cliff On Monday, May 24, 2021, 03:06:20 AM CDT, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles wrote: Hi all.I didn?t get any responses to my valve dilemma.? I?ve made another video with the problem right at the start so you don?t have to watch it all.? I would really appreciate some advice here, I?m not sure what to do. https://youtu.be/qJhVeFrUwWI Thanks James_______________________________________________ Personal_Submersibles mailing list Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Mon May 24 08:47:29 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 12:47:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Valve part 2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1721251880.1043466.1621860449355@mail.yahoo.com> Hi James, ?I am with you on this, I would not like it the way it is. ?I would guess the nipple went out of round from welding it in.Because of the location, I would either do as Cliff mentions or weld a nipple to the penetrating nipple as you suggest. ?My worry would be how to get a good weld in that location. ?If it were me, i would sacrifice ID and slide a nipple inside the existing one. ?This would give you a shoulder to weld to and the weld would be much easier. ?Then just bush it back to the original size. ?It is not right in front of me, so maybe I am wrong about ease of welding. ?On Gamma, i bought a fitting that screwed into the flood valve and hit it with 600 psi every spring before diving. ?I also did like you and had a hand tight plug, also I removed the handle in case a passenger hit it.Hank On Monday, May 24, 2021, 02:05:33 AM MDT, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles wrote: Hi all.I didn?t get any responses to my valve dilemma.? I?ve made another video with the problem right at the start so you don?t have to watch it all.? I would really appreciate some advice here, I?m not sure what to do. https://youtu.be/qJhVeFrUwWI Thanks James_______________________________________________ Personal_Submersibles mailing list Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Mon May 24 09:02:32 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (Steve McQueen via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 09:02:32 -0400 Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Valve part 2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: James, I like all the advice you've gotten so far. Pick the solution that makes you not worry about it : ) Steve On Mon, May 24, 2021 at 4:06 AM James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles < personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote: > Hi all. > I didn?t get any responses to my valve dilemma. I?ve made another video > with the problem right at the start so you don?t have to watch it all. I > would really appreciate some advice here, I?m not sure what to do. > > https://youtu.be/qJhVeFrUwWI > > Thanks James > _______________________________________________ > Personal_Submersibles mailing list > Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org > http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Mon May 24 10:01:07 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 10:01:07 -0400 Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Valve part 2 In-Reply-To: <508130589.1045187.1621858773383@mail.yahoo.com> References: <508130589.1045187.1621858773383@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: This! Just get a die and cut the threads a little further. If the curvature of the hull interferes, then a tap and cut the female threads instead. Best, Alec On Mon, May 24, 2021 at 8:20 AM Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles < personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote: > James, as this is a tapered pipe thread (NPT in states) , I would buy a > pipe tap that fits this thread and cut the female threads a bit deeper by > running the tap until it lands and then getting a few more turns on it with > a wrench. This should enable you to get a few more threads engaged. As > Jon notes, it would be easy to test joint by connecting a pressure washer > with a bypass valve and a pressure gage and subject it to a pressure 1.5 > times the design depth. IF it is leak free, you are good to go. > > Cliff > > On Monday, May 24, 2021, 03:06:20 AM CDT, James Frankland via > Personal_Submersibles wrote: > > > Hi all. > I didn?t get any responses to my valve dilemma. I?ve made another video > with the problem right at the start so you don?t have to watch it all. I > would really appreciate some advice here, I?m not sure what to do. > > https://youtu.be/qJhVeFrUwWI > > Thanks James > _______________________________________________ > Personal_Submersibles mailing list > Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org > http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles > _______________________________________________ > Personal_Submersibles mailing list > Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org > http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Mon May 24 10:08:20 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (Sean T. Stevenson via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 14:08:20 +0000 Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Valve part 2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: First off, can you confirm that both the male and female thread are of the same thread standard (NPT, ISO / BSP, etc.)? These tapered thread forms are not all interchangeable. To get deeper engagement on a tapered pipe thread, you can run a tap in the female thread, or run a die over the male thread, or both. (Where the tools are available, it's never a bad idea to dress both sides of a tapered pipe thread connection prior to assembly just to avoid problems with fouled or damaged threads). In this case, I'd be inclined to try to dress the male thread with a die first, because it is likely out of true geometry due to the welding. A die that size won't be a cheap tool though if you don't already own it. Consider also the function of a PTFE (or similar) pipe thread sealant. The sealant actually serves three purposes, the first of which is, as expected, to seal the spiral thread gap. The second purpose is to prevent galling between similar alloys (particularly an issue with AISI Type 316 / 316L stainless and equivalents like CF-8M) during make up. The third, and arguably most important purpose is to act as a thread lubricant which facilitates greater engagement and interference of the tapered thread by reducing the rotating friction between the parts, ultimately resulting in a smaller gap to be sealed, and consequently a more successful seal. When working with tapered threads, I typically tighten them hand tight plus 1.5 to 3 full turns, but that is specifically with smaller diameter fittings. 2" and larger fittings may have different recommendations for number of turns as someone else already mentioned, and of course often tapered threads are used to make up fittings with a final required orientation, which isn't necessarily ideal for obtaining optimum assembly torque / engagement. Importantly though, "hand tight" applies to a connection which has first been lubricated with pipe thread sealant, and will typically be quite a bit further engaged than when test fit dry. Sean -------- Original Message -------- On May 24, 2021, 02:05, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles wrote: > Hi all. > I didn?t get any responses to my valve dilemma. I?ve made another video with the problem right at the start so you don?t have to watch it all. I would really appreciate some advice here, I?m not sure what to do. > > https://youtu.be/qJhVeFrUwWI > > Thanks James -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Mon May 24 12:20:17 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 09:20:17 -0700 Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Valve part 2 Message-ID: <20210524092017.39042C0E@m0117566.ppops.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Mon May 24 12:24:57 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 17:24:57 +0100 Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Valve part 2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks everyone. The thread is 2" BSPT on both obviously and I had the external one on the pipe nipple cut at an engineering place with a powered pipe threader. Agreed, ptfe tape will hopefully allow it to turn a little more. I think with the advice given, im going to try and thread the male threads on the pipe nipple a bit deeper. Ive been having a quick look at pipe threading machines. Im going to see if i can hire one to start with. Unlikely here i suspect. Also i will go to the place i originally had it threaded and see if i can borrow something. I know them quite well there. Did find some manual ones, https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-PTK992-Threading-8-inch-2-inch/dp/B000R9W1A6/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=2%22+pipe+threader&qid=1621872818&s=diy&sr=1-3 but they look a bit poor quality. There are better, but look at the price...But might just do it for this one job, especially as the threads are cut mostly already. Might need to get some better cutting dies? Anyway, im not even quite sure how they work so will look at some videos later. Anyway, i have some options. Keep any ideas coming, it really helps. Thanks again. James On Mon, 24 May 2021 at 15:09, Sean T. Stevenson via Personal_Submersibles < personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote: > First off, can you confirm that both the male and female thread are of the > same thread standard (NPT, ISO / BSP, etc.)? These tapered thread forms are > not all interchangeable. > > To get deeper engagement on a tapered pipe thread, you can run a tap in > the female thread, or run a die over the male thread, or both. (Where the > tools are available, it's never a bad idea to dress both sides of a tapered > pipe thread connection prior to assembly just to avoid problems with fouled > or damaged threads). In this case, I'd be inclined to try to dress the male > thread with a die first, because it is likely out of true geometry due to > the welding. A die that size won't be a cheap tool though if you don't > already own it. > > Consider also the function of a PTFE (or similar) pipe thread sealant. The > sealant actually serves three purposes, the first of which is, as expected, > to seal the spiral thread gap. The second purpose is to prevent galling > between similar alloys (particularly an issue with AISI Type 316 / 316L > stainless and equivalents like CF-8M) during make up. The third, and > arguably most important purpose is to act as a thread lubricant which > facilitates greater engagement and interference of the tapered thread by > reducing the rotating friction between the parts, ultimately resulting in a > smaller gap to be sealed, and consequently a more successful seal. > > When working with tapered threads, I typically tighten them hand tight > plus 1.5 to 3 full turns, but that is specifically with smaller diameter > fittings. 2" and larger fittings may have different recommendations for > number of turns as someone else already mentioned, and of course often > tapered threads are used to make up fittings with a final required > orientation, which isn't necessarily ideal for obtaining optimum assembly > torque / engagement. Importantly though, "hand tight" applies to a > connection which has first been lubricated with pipe thread sealant, and > will typically be quite a bit further engaged than when test fit dry. > > Sean > > -------- Original Message -------- > On May 24, 2021, 02:05, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles < > personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote: > > > Hi all. > I didn?t get any responses to my valve dilemma. I?ve made another video > with the problem right at the start so you don?t have to watch it all. I > would really appreciate some advice here, I?m not sure what to do. > > https://youtu.be/qJhVeFrUwWI > > Thanks James > _______________________________________________ > Personal_Submersibles mailing list > Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org > http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Tue May 25 13:55:52 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (David Colombo via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Tue, 25 May 2021 10:55:52 -0700 Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Valve part 2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: James, what was connected to the nipple previously? If you still have it, I would try two things. How many turns would it take to reapply it, first ans then take your street El and screw it into the part as well. I believe that will tell you if the nipple is out of round or if the original fitting was actually only held on by two turns, in which case I would follow the advice and retap the old threads. Best Regards, David Colombo 804 College Ave Santa Rosa, CA. 95404 (707) 536-1424 www.SeaQuestor.com On Mon, May 24, 2021 at 9:25 AM James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles < personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote: > Thanks everyone. > > The thread is 2" BSPT on both obviously and I had the external one on the > pipe nipple cut at an engineering place with a powered pipe threader. > Agreed, ptfe tape will hopefully allow it to turn a little more. > > I think with the advice given, im going to try and thread the male threads > on the pipe nipple a bit deeper. Ive been having a quick look at pipe > threading machines. > > Im going to see if i can hire one to start with. Unlikely here i > suspect. Also i will go to the place i originally had it threaded and see > if i can borrow something. I know them quite well there. > > Did find some manual ones, > > > https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-PTK992-Threading-8-inch-2-inch/dp/B000R9W1A6/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=2%22+pipe+threader&qid=1621872818&s=diy&sr=1-3 > > but they look a bit poor quality. There are better, but look at the > price...But might just do it for this one job, especially as the threads > are cut mostly already. Might need to get some better cutting dies? > Anyway, im not even quite sure how they work so will look at some videos > later. > > Anyway, i have some options. Keep any ideas coming, it really helps. > Thanks again. > James > > > > On Mon, 24 May 2021 at 15:09, Sean T. Stevenson via Personal_Submersibles < > personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote: > >> First off, can you confirm that both the male and female thread are of >> the same thread standard (NPT, ISO / BSP, etc.)? These tapered thread forms >> are not all interchangeable. >> >> To get deeper engagement on a tapered pipe thread, you can run a tap in >> the female thread, or run a die over the male thread, or both. (Where the >> tools are available, it's never a bad idea to dress both sides of a tapered >> pipe thread connection prior to assembly just to avoid problems with fouled >> or damaged threads). In this case, I'd be inclined to try to dress the male >> thread with a die first, because it is likely out of true geometry due to >> the welding. A die that size won't be a cheap tool though if you don't >> already own it. >> >> Consider also the function of a PTFE (or similar) pipe thread sealant. >> The sealant actually serves three purposes, the first of which is, as >> expected, to seal the spiral thread gap. The second purpose is to prevent >> galling between similar alloys (particularly an issue with AISI Type 316 / >> 316L stainless and equivalents like CF-8M) during make up. The third, and >> arguably most important purpose is to act as a thread lubricant which >> facilitates greater engagement and interference of the tapered thread by >> reducing the rotating friction between the parts, ultimately resulting in a >> smaller gap to be sealed, and consequently a more successful seal. >> >> When working with tapered threads, I typically tighten them hand tight >> plus 1.5 to 3 full turns, but that is specifically with smaller diameter >> fittings. 2" and larger fittings may have different recommendations for >> number of turns as someone else already mentioned, and of course often >> tapered threads are used to make up fittings with a final required >> orientation, which isn't necessarily ideal for obtaining optimum assembly >> torque / engagement. Importantly though, "hand tight" applies to a >> connection which has first been lubricated with pipe thread sealant, and >> will typically be quite a bit further engaged than when test fit dry. >> >> Sean >> >> -------- Original Message -------- >> On May 24, 2021, 02:05, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles < >> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote: >> >> >> Hi all. >> I didn?t get any responses to my valve dilemma. I?ve made another video >> with the problem right at the start so you don?t have to watch it all. I >> would really appreciate some advice here, I?m not sure what to do. >> >> https://youtu.be/qJhVeFrUwWI >> >> Thanks James >> _______________________________________________ >> Personal_Submersibles mailing list >> Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org >> http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles >> >> _______________________________________________ > Personal_Submersibles mailing list > Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org > http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Wed May 26 10:15:39 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Wed, 26 May 2021 15:15:39 +0100 Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Valve part 2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi David. There was nothing on it originally. It was a piece of XXH pipe as specified on the K350 plans that I had thread cut with a BSPT pipe threading machine at an engineering shop. Anyway, i have ordered a 2" BSPT button die and handle to fit. I think this is quite possibly the single most expensive thing i have ever bought just to do one small job. But there we go, its got to be done. So, assuming it arrives for this weekend, I will attempt to re cut the threads. I suspect the handles may need re making on the holder in order to clear the curvature of the hull, but we'll see. Failing that, i will weld on a straight coupler. Thanks James On Tue, 25 May 2021 at 18:57, David Colombo via Personal_Submersibles < personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote: > James, what was connected to the nipple previously? If you still have it, > I would try two things. How many turns would it take to reapply it, first > ans then take your street El and screw it into the part as well. I believe > that will tell you if the nipple is out of round or if the original fitting > was actually only held on by two turns, in which case I would follow the > advice and retap the old threads. > > Best Regards, > David Colombo > > 804 College Ave > Santa Rosa, CA. 95404 > (707) 536-1424 > www.SeaQuestor.com > > > > On Mon, May 24, 2021 at 9:25 AM James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles < > personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote: > >> Thanks everyone. >> >> The thread is 2" BSPT on both obviously and I had the external one on the >> pipe nipple cut at an engineering place with a powered pipe threader. >> Agreed, ptfe tape will hopefully allow it to turn a little more. >> >> I think with the advice given, im going to try and thread the male >> threads on the pipe nipple a bit deeper. Ive been having a quick look at >> pipe threading machines. >> >> Im going to see if i can hire one to start with. Unlikely here i >> suspect. Also i will go to the place i originally had it threaded and see >> if i can borrow something. I know them quite well there. >> >> Did find some manual ones, >> >> >> https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-PTK992-Threading-8-inch-2-inch/dp/B000R9W1A6/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=2%22+pipe+threader&qid=1621872818&s=diy&sr=1-3 >> >> but they look a bit poor quality. There are better, but look at the >> price...But might just do it for this one job, especially as the threads >> are cut mostly already. Might need to get some better cutting dies? >> Anyway, im not even quite sure how they work so will look at some videos >> later. >> >> Anyway, i have some options. Keep any ideas coming, it really helps. >> Thanks again. >> James >> >> >> >> On Mon, 24 May 2021 at 15:09, Sean T. Stevenson via Personal_Submersibles >> wrote: >> >>> First off, can you confirm that both the male and female thread are of >>> the same thread standard (NPT, ISO / BSP, etc.)? These tapered thread forms >>> are not all interchangeable. >>> >>> To get deeper engagement on a tapered pipe thread, you can run a tap in >>> the female thread, or run a die over the male thread, or both. (Where the >>> tools are available, it's never a bad idea to dress both sides of a tapered >>> pipe thread connection prior to assembly just to avoid problems with fouled >>> or damaged threads). In this case, I'd be inclined to try to dress the male >>> thread with a die first, because it is likely out of true geometry due to >>> the welding. A die that size won't be a cheap tool though if you don't >>> already own it. >>> >>> Consider also the function of a PTFE (or similar) pipe thread sealant. >>> The sealant actually serves three purposes, the first of which is, as >>> expected, to seal the spiral thread gap. The second purpose is to prevent >>> galling between similar alloys (particularly an issue with AISI Type 316 / >>> 316L stainless and equivalents like CF-8M) during make up. The third, and >>> arguably most important purpose is to act as a thread lubricant which >>> facilitates greater engagement and interference of the tapered thread by >>> reducing the rotating friction between the parts, ultimately resulting in a >>> smaller gap to be sealed, and consequently a more successful seal. >>> >>> When working with tapered threads, I typically tighten them hand tight >>> plus 1.5 to 3 full turns, but that is specifically with smaller diameter >>> fittings. 2" and larger fittings may have different recommendations for >>> number of turns as someone else already mentioned, and of course often >>> tapered threads are used to make up fittings with a final required >>> orientation, which isn't necessarily ideal for obtaining optimum assembly >>> torque / engagement. Importantly though, "hand tight" applies to a >>> connection which has first been lubricated with pipe thread sealant, and >>> will typically be quite a bit further engaged than when test fit dry. >>> >>> Sean >>> >>> -------- Original Message -------- >>> On May 24, 2021, 02:05, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles < >>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote: >>> >>> >>> Hi all. >>> I didn?t get any responses to my valve dilemma. I?ve made another video >>> with the problem right at the start so you don?t have to watch it all. I >>> would really appreciate some advice here, I?m not sure what to do. >>> >>> https://youtu.be/qJhVeFrUwWI >>> >>> Thanks James >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Personal_Submersibles mailing list >>> Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org >>> http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> Personal_Submersibles mailing list >> Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org >> http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles >> > _______________________________________________ > Personal_Submersibles mailing list > Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org > http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Sat May 29 20:07:01 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Sat, 29 May 2021 17:07:01 -0700 Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] New nose cone Message-ID: <20210529170701.390573C5@m0117566.ppops.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: nosecone.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 42597 bytes Desc: not available URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Sat May 29 22:41:51 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (Alan James via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 02:41:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] New nose cone In-Reply-To: <20210529170701.390573C5@m0117566.ppops.net> References: <20210529170701.390573C5@m0117566.ppops.net> Message-ID: <1131274655.1642737.1622342511965@mail.yahoo.com> Looks good Brian,?it's evolving!?Alan On Sunday, May 30, 2021, 12:09:15 PM GMT+12, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles wrote: Here is my new nose cone, still have some things to do with it . Putting an access hole in the bottom, and some hole at the top.? Along with some additional support.? And I will be ordering a big piece of that rov foam , 680lbs additional positive buoyancy. and I'm doing a bunch of other things as well. Cheers ! Brian_______________________________________________ Personal_Submersibles mailing list Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Sun May 30 00:37:14 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Sat, 29 May 2021 21:37:14 -0700 Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] New nose cone Message-ID: <20210529213714.382C7A4A@m0117460.ppops.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Sun May 30 04:19:20 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 08:19:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] New nose cone In-Reply-To: <20210529213714.382C7A4A@m0117460.ppops.net> References: <20210529213714.382C7A4A@m0117460.ppops.net> Message-ID: <1123262330.1675146.1622362760829@mail.yahoo.com> Brian, looking good, it must have been tricky.Hank On Saturday, May 29, 2021, 10:37:27 PM MDT, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles wrote: Thanks Alan !? ?I'm redoing my drop weights as well, they were not well placed. Brian --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote: From: Alan James via Personal_Submersibles To: Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] New nose cone Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 02:41:51 +0000 (UTC) Looks good Brian,?it's evolving!?Alan On Sunday, May 30, 2021, 12:09:15 PM GMT+12, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles wrote: Here is my new nose cone, still have some things to do with it . Putting an access hole in the bottom, and some hole at the top.? Along with some additional support.? And I will be ordering a big piece of that rov foam , 680lbs additional positive buoyancy. and I'm doing a bunch of other things as well. Cheers ! Brian_______________________________________________ Personal_Submersibles mailing list Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles _______________________________________________Personal_Submersibles mailing listPersonal_Submersibles at psubs.orghttp://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles_______________________________________________ Personal_Submersibles mailing list Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Sun May 30 14:45:39 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 11:45:39 -0700 Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] New nose cone Message-ID: <20210530114539.427955E8@m0117567.ppops.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Sun May 30 15:52:04 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 19:52:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] New nose cone In-Reply-To: <20210530114539.427955E8@m0117567.ppops.net> References: <20210530114539.427955E8@m0117567.ppops.net> Message-ID: <65952803.1748475.1622404324524@mail.yahoo.com> Brian, how did you mould it? ?A hole in the ground? ?Block of foam?Hank On Sunday, May 30, 2021, 12:45:52 PM MDT, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles wrote: Hank,? ? It was a bit tricky, especially?since I had to do it away from where the sub is parked.?? Brian --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote: From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles To: Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] New nose cone Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 08:19:20 +0000 (UTC) Brian, looking good, it must have been tricky.Hank On Saturday, May 29, 2021, 10:37:27 PM MDT, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles wrote: Thanks Alan !? ?I'm redoing my drop weights as well, they were not well placed. Brian --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote: From: Alan James via Personal_Submersibles To: Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] New nose cone Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 02:41:51 +0000 (UTC) Looks good Brian,?it's evolving!?Alan On Sunday, May 30, 2021, 12:09:15 PM GMT+12, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles wrote: Here is my new nose cone, still have some things to do with it . Putting an access hole in the bottom, and some hole at the top.? Along with some additional support.? And I will be ordering a big piece of that rov foam , 680lbs additional positive buoyancy. and I'm doing a bunch of other things as well. Cheers ! Brian_______________________________________________ Personal_Submersibles mailing list Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles _______________________________________________Personal_Submersibles mailing listPersonal_Submersibles at psubs.orghttp://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles_______________________________________________ Personal_Submersibles mailing list Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles _______________________________________________Personal_Submersibles mailing listPersonal_Submersibles at psubs.orghttp://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles_______________________________________________ Personal_Submersibles mailing list Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From personal_submersibles at psubs.org Mon May 31 00:13:02 2021 From: personal_submersibles at psubs.org (Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles) Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 21:13:02 -0700 Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] New nose cone Message-ID: <20210530211302.3AD319E1@m0117565.ppops.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: