[PSUBS-MAILIST] led

Fri Jan 1 02:21:23 EST 2021

 Rick, Sounds good. You have got me thinking now about having a water sensing probe that triggers an alarm when the sub is out of the water and the lights are on. I would be quite capable of leaving them on & cooking them! I had a look on the Psubs fb page but couldn't see you on it yet. I think you have to be oked by the administration, so may be a delay. Alan
    On Thursday, December 31, 2020, 06:52:40 AM GMT+13, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:  

 Hi Alan 
I have a buck buster to lower the volts from 36 to 34 volt per it's requirement but don't plan on being able to dim them. I also have the toggle switches that illuminate when on so it will be easier to see what's on and what's off so hopefully they would never be on when sub is out of the water.I clicked the "join tab" but nothing happened as far as wanting me to come up with a password or anything so hopefully it worked. 
Rick

On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 8:02 PM Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

 Hi Rick, this link may work, 
https://www.facebook.com/groups/PSUBS/permalink/1342958449381043/
Or your wife could search for Psubs on Facebook & join. 
Bottom of this thread is a diagram of the difference between a flip chip and normal cob. The flip chip throws more heat out the back. Google flip chip led for some good articles. I think I have destroyed a few flip chips mucking around with them, but haven't destroyed any mounted in my lights. They have had a thrashing as I have been using the lights in air & getting them really hot. (if water sizzles on them they are too hot) I wouldn't use marvel mystery oil in the housings because of the heat factor. If you accidentally left them on out of water. I would check the flash point of marvel mystery oil, would think it would be quite low.I use silicone oil. Marvel Mystery oil make up. It is composed primarily of petroleum distillates, including mineral oil (60–100%), mineral spirits (10–30%), tricresyl phosphate (an antiwear and extreme pressure additive in lubricants, 0.1–1.0%), ortho-dichlorobenzene (a softening and removing agent for carbon-based contamination on metal surfaces, 0.1–1.0%), and ...
It is a class 3 flammible liquid. Your 10,000 lumen lights will be fine in water but probably heat up really fast out of it. I have experimented with them in the kitchen sink and mine hardly warm up in water but are untouchable after a couple of minutes out of water. The Mc Master Carr lens sounds good. Mine were heat and pressure resistant borosilicate lenses. Alan

    On Wednesday, December 30, 2020, 04:06:51 PM GMT+13, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:  

 Alan
I don't have facebook but my wife does. not being familiar with the format, how would I look up your lights?my cobs are 1 13/16" X 1 9/16" and about 1/8" thick. What approximate size are yours and how does a flip chip differ from a regular cob? have you had any burn out from getting too hot?I am using a dielectric oil in my light housings called Marvel Mystery oil to get around the pressure differential problem but it has a slight color to it so will have to see how the light is effected by that and if it gets any worse from being heated. 10,000 lumens is a lot of light so hopefully they will still be bright enough. I am using oil compensated thrusters as well and I do have small bladders that can expand and contract with heat.I bought heat treated lenses from Mcmaster Carr but they were about $22 each and they are glass instead of acrylic. Rick

On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 2:55 PM Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

 Hi Rick, I posted a couple of pictures of them on the psubs Facebook page. Not sure whether you are on there or not. The lights are about 7000lm. Leds are usually around 100lms per Watt. They are rated a bit more but I am under driving them as they get too hot otherwise. They are chip on board leds. A technology called "flip chip". I bought them off the manufacturer in China. Marine anodizing is thicker, 25 microns. You can get more corrosion protection with hard anodizing. It affords extra protection against galvanic corrosion. The buck boost drops or increases the supply voltage to the voltage required for the led. In my case I can connect the driver to anything from 12V to 60V and it increases/reduces it to the 36V required  by the led. The driver should also be CC (constant current) as the resistance of the led drops as it heats up & allows a lot more current through. I didn't want oil as its messy, & hard to get all the air out. It can also discolour with heat. It's used successfully by lots of people. One technique with oil filling is to have a hose fitting out the back of the light with a pvc tube attached that the wires run down. The tube is pre-crimped so that it collapses easy under pressure & equalises the light fitting. I am using glass lenses because acrylic holds the heat in. Alan

    On Wednesday, December 30, 2020, 10:37:56 AM GMT+13, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:  

 Hi Alan 
Couple of questions
How many lumens are your lightsWhat is the source of the light? COB?How does marine anodizing differ from just regular anodizing and why do you think that is necessary?Is the Buck Buster/LED driver only needed to be able to dim?Why did you want to avoid oil?Rick
On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 10:59 AM Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

 Rick, I spent a lot of time on my light project, initially looking for & buying lights & housings on line, that I could adapt. I ended up buying 70W leds & making my own housings. The housings I had marine anodized. I had to get an led driver designed & built in China, as I wanted dimming. The driver is a constant current step up, step down (buck boost) that takes a 12-60V input. I had the lenses made up in China; 20 for about $2- each. The units were tested to 1000psi. Have used them quite a bit in caves! They get hammered in that instance because they don't have the water cooling & can get very hot. Other people have oil filled spot lights used on off road vehicles successfully, but I wanted more of a race car look to my sub & wanted to avoid the oil. If a housing or light came up that was suitable & easy to adapt I would use it. But bare in mind that most online lights would need marine anodizing. Alan 

    On Wednesday, December 30, 2020, 08:08:07 AM GMT+13, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:  

 I built my own aluminum exterior light housing, 6 each, using a cob led bulb that was 10,000 lumens, DC 34 volt and about 100 watts. My friend found them online and they were about $3.50 each. I fried a number of them due to poor heat sink or driving them too much and finally got them dialed in. I asked my friend to buy some more and he said that the source in Japan does not sell them any more.  I found something similar here in the U.S after hours of searching that matched pretty closely to what I had but they were about $38 each. Is anyone using something similar as far as lumens goes that has any sources I could try or is that price about the best I can do?
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