[PSUBS-MAILIST] right side up compensator
Alan via Personal_Submersibles
personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Sun Mar 29 02:05:43 EDT 2020
Brian,
yes you could do that but it would require a regulator to give you ambient
pressure & it would still be open to the water, which Sean advised against.
I have 4 X 2nd stage regulators on my ambient. They are the octopus type
that are less sensitive, cheaper & don't free flow. I took off the mouth piece
& attached hose, then heated the outlet port plastic & inserted 2 PVC bends
as shown. The bends helped keep water away from the outlet valves.
But I consider the regulator that Cliff gave you a link to a much better option
with less mucking round.
Cliff used this successfully with an air compensated system. You can use it
as an air over oil system & it will use much less air.
That's what I am doing. Otherwise make something up from a truck or
car boot like Oystein had on his ROV. It would be cheap & easy to do.
Alan
> On 29/03/2020, at 5:17 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Alan,
> If you were say at 33' and the water had at that point climbed all the way up the seawater tube, you could inject some air into the bottom of my reservoir and push all that water back out of the tube, then the next atmosphere you descended to the water would only go half as much further up the tube, and each subsequent atmosphere the same would be true. You could lengthen your bubble that way with hp air.
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:
>
> From: Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] right side up compensator
> Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 08:34:43 +1300
>
> I like the ROV Oystein, well done.
> That compensator would work well for Brian.
> Brian's problem is that he made his own thruster & housing which is a bit
> of a beast in that it needs gallons of fluid to compensate it.
> His concern is to have enough room for oil expansion which is an unknown
> quantity. Personally I think he will get more expansion with it sitting out of
> water in the sun than running underwater where oil circulating against the
> large housing will keep it cool.
> Alan
>
>
> On 29/03/2020, at 7:57 AM, Øystein Skarholm via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Again, NEVER open the oil to contact the seawater. You WILL get water into the oil! Have the oil closed. Unless you have a piston in your riser tube, the air will flow straight out and water will come i.
> <image.png>
> The idea to the left.....and the result to the right. Just trust me on this.
> The below picture shows one of the ROV I have built. The canister in the center contains computers and power supply ++ 600Volt DC
> The whole canister is filled with Shell Diala S4 oil (In the progress of changing to MIDEL ( Not so aggressive to the rubber and plastic parts.
> I use a small bladder compensator for this (its far too big really, but came cheap off the shelve from an auto dealer shop) The little tee lets me inject oil through a check valve
> until I get 0,2bar overpressure. The red cap in the end lid is the main filling bulkhead.
>
>
>
> Virusfri. www.avg.com
>
> lør. 28. mar. 2020 kl. 15:14 skrev Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>:
> I'm thinking we need someone to give a technical talk on this at our next convention. I'm not only confused but I guessing others are as well. I thought the simplest approach, from previous discussions, was just to use a length of hose connected to the oil filled motor on one end and open to water on the other end. See attachment. This allows expansion of oil into the hose (blue), but traps a gap of air (white) as water (green) enters the hose during a dive. Water compresses the trapped air the deeper you go, so designing a large enough gap is important because that air gap can get quite small and potentially result in mixing of the oil and water. At 300 feet for example, the air gap is only .652 inches (16.5mm) when using a 30 foot (9 meter) hose.
>
> My understanding for the need of a bladder is in a closed system, meaning no hose open to the water, to have an expansion point (the bladder) for any increased oil volume due to heat whether it be motor operation or just sitting in the sun while out of the water.
>
> Jon
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>
> --
> Vennlig hilsen
> Øystein Skarholm
> 91369599
> <Compensator.jpeg>
> <SDI ROV.jpg>
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