[PSUBS-MAILIST] 12V DC Light Survey
Alan via Personal_Submersibles
personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Sat Nov 10 13:41:14 EST 2018
Steve,
I am going with a similar set up but in addition are putting
a spot light up high for surface navigation & for further penetration
under water. I am also thinking about an internal light acting as emergency
lighting, but with a spongy heat resistant teflon (ptfe) seal on the front of it
so I can push it up against a view port to spot things in the water.
Don't know how this will work with ghosting from the acrylic.
Then there are the navigation lights that I have only thought about so far.
Cheers Alan
On 11/11/2018, at 3:18 AM, Steve McQueen via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> Alan/Hank, good information. I have some time to finalize my light solution.
>
> Sounds like 10A per light is reasonable. I am using the same Subconn penetrator/connector as we use for the Psubs std. comms. connection.
>
> I will feed 2 lights thru 1 penetrator. My design has 4 lights total. 2 fwd, 1 port and 1 stb.
>
> Steve
>
>
>
>
> On November 9, 2018, at 11:12 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>
> Steve, Jon,
> sorry didn't see the comment about oil / air.
> I went with air after playing around with oil. Mainly because of mess & concerns
> about the oil degrading or yellowing of the oil. The perspex lens I was using
> with oil compensation, trapped the heat in compared with a glass lens.
> You put your hand in front of the glass & plastic lenses & a lot more heat
> radiates out through the glass.
> When we visited Nuytco they were using oil compensated lights with an oil
> filled plastic wiring tube out the back. I am pretty sure I remember one of their
> guys saying that they initiate the collapse of this tube by putting some
> sort of clip on it. We discussed this on Psubs & thought that the plastic tube
> could take more than 100psi before collapsing & equalising the light fitting
> without this initialisation.
> I spent a lot of time designing & building my lights, but I was aiming for something
> as small as possible. If you don't care about size then oil compensating an off
> the shelf light as Hank suggested will save you a lot of time. I think Alec hard
> anodised an off the shelf light.
> Below are the parts for the light I made, including the mold for the polyurathane
> exterior of the wire entry. The lens, driver, driver housing & large teflon seal that
> the lens sits on were custom made for me.
> Alan
>
>
>
>> On 10/11/2018, at 1:54 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>> Jon, Steve
>> Not sure if this is up your alley, but here is a picture of a 10,000L oil filled light that is very easy to build and inexpensive. I have tested this light to 1,500 psi. This is a short version of the 24,000 L light on Gamma that is just amazing. The light consists of a off road light bar circuit board that slides tightly into an acrylic tube with rubber ends to act as bellows.
>> Hank
>>
>> On Friday, November 9, 2018, 3:57:23 PM MST, Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I would add to that survey, please describe the ease of air/oil compensating the light.
>>
>>
>> From: Steve McQueen via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>> To: Steve McQueen via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>> Sent: Friday, November 9, 2018 4:51 PM
>> Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] 12V DC Light Survey
>>
>> All, for those using 12V systems I was wondering who has an LED design that works well? Was hoping to get feedback on lumens and currents.
>>
>> I am allowing 10 amps per light as an assumption for choosing a penetrator rating (10k lumens = approx. 111 watts (LED), 111W/12V= 9.25A).
>>
>> Seems 10k lumens has proven enough from what I have been observing.
>>
>> Looking for some validation, feedback.
>>
>> Thanks, Steve
>>
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