[PSUBS-MAILIST] Battery Pods Question

[Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles]

Hey James
My vote then would be to just flush the ID of the flange to the ID of the
pipe with a full penn weld and call it good.
Rick

On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 8:05 AM James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> Hi Rick,
>
> No, its not done.  The first pic was of the Ksub.  Those flanges were the
> ones that had the overhang.  I have not started on the flanges for the new
> one.   I am investigating....
>
>
> On 12 June 2018 at 15:08, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>> Sounds like it’s done already? If you are happy with the quality of the
>> welding , then can you notch the flange only where the tray hits?
>> Rick
>>
>> On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 6:59 AM James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles
>> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Guys,
>>>
>>> Brian.  The flanges are welded to both the tube and endcap.
>>>
>>> Rick.  The reason I made them protrude onto the inside is because I
>>> wanted plenty of material at the joint, and didn't really know any
>>> different.   I just made it like a hatch which protrudes on both sides.
>>>
>>> Sounds like the flush method will be ok.  It will be full penetration
>>> welded of course.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> James
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 12 June 2018 at 14:44, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <
>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>
>>>> What was your reason for having the flange come in less than the ID of
>>>> your pipe?
>>>>
>>>> I did mine flush like Hank did and one thing that comes to mind is that
>>>> it would create an area that might be hard to see and effectively wire
>>>> brush or grind to deal with future rust down the road? That was something
>>>> that I thought about for the hull side of the web on my T bar frames.
>>>> Rick
>>>>
>>>> On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 6:08 AM hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
>>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> James,
>>>>> I can't see any real benefit to having the flange ring protrude inside
>>>>> the pod.  If the ring is flush with the inside, the load still transfers
>>>>> directly onto the pod wall.  You can still have a full penetration weld
>>>>> from one side and grind it clean on the inside.  So why not? that would be
>>>>> how I did it, and you really have no choice if you need the height for
>>>>> batteries.
>>>>> Hank
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tuesday, June 12, 2018, 5:44:49 AM MDT, James Frankland via
>>>>> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Hi All
>>>>>
>>>>> I am making new battery pods for Skadoc.  I am thinking of making
>>>>> the removable ends slightly different to how I did it on the K.  On that, I
>>>>> put the flanges on to make like a standard flanged end.  However, I made
>>>>> them like you would a hatch, ie with the centre of the flange being welded
>>>>> to the centre of the tube.  So there is overlap on both sides of the ID and
>>>>> OD of the tube.  Bit difficult to explain.  Pic here of the K ones when I
>>>>> was making them.
>>>>>
>>>>>   K350 pod ends.
>>>>>
>>>>> The problem with these is that the overlap onto the inside diameter of
>>>>> the tube makes the hole smaller and you cant slide the trays out.
>>>>>
>>>>> With the new one, I have made rolling trays and I want them to slide
>>>>> straight out.
>>>>>
>>>>> So, I am thinking I can make the flanges flush with the inside
>>>>> diameter of the tube.
>>>>>
>>>>> I have not started this part yet, so any advice greatly appreciated.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> ​
>>>>> Not a very good picture, but new trays with rollers made.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks
>>>>> James
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> ​
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