[PSUBS-MAILIST] Ammeter Question

Wed Jan 10 11:16:31 EST 2018

Steve,   What does that in line shunt do?        What amperage fuses are you using at your battery terminals?  Are you worried about start up voltage blowing the fuse?

Brian

--- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:

From: Steve McQueen via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Ammeter Question
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2018 8:25:57 -0500

Yes my K-250 is a 12V DC system.

FYI, In the diagram I sent I have decided I will also be adding battery terminal fuses directly on each of the positive battery posts (the diagram does not currently reflect that).

They also make "in-line" shunts that you then use as ammeter sensors. I have attached an image. 

Thanks,
Steve

---- Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote: 
> Steve,
> 
> Thanks for the attachments and input. Are your thrustors 12V? On my 350, my
> 12v system just runs the instruments so the draw on the 12v should be
> pretty low but on my 36v side I will need a much larger amp meter as my 3
> thrusters at max will be 140 amps but I am also running 6 external LED
> lights off that bank as well @ about 2.75 amps per lite.
> Rick
> 
> On Tue, Jan 9, 2018 at 3:17 PM, Steve McQueen via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> 
> > Rick, I am making the same decision currently.  I am leaning toward using
> > a 300A ammeter to monitor total current draw in my 12V DC system (see
> > attached example and working sketch).
> >
> > I am going to use the “circular loop” style tap (hall effect sensor)
> > mainly because the point I am monitoring is 2/0 AWG.  Not an easy thing to
> > splice into.
> >
> >
> >
> > There might be some sensitivity/accuracy issues associated with the exact
> > location of the wire within the sensor but I not concerned with high
> > accuracy as much as a repeatable reference. I would guess you could
> > arrange/install it such as to minimize this positional concern.
> >
> > I am not sure about the sensor being affected by “touching” the hull but I
> > would just mount it such that it avoids that contact.
> >
> >
> >
> > Personally I am not monitoring individual thruster circuits but am relying
> > on breakers to indicate issues.
> >
> >
> >
> > I am trying to keep things simple in my K-250.
> >
> >
> >
> > Steve
> >
> >
> >
> > *From:* Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-
> > bounces at psubs.org] *On Behalf Of *Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles
> > *Sent:* Tuesday, January 9, 2018 7:49 PM
> > *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
> > personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> > *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] At Home O2 Cleaning Process
> >
> >
> >
> > Can't get into my contacts page to send a new thread rite now (I hate
> > computers) so gonna tag this thread for something different, sorry...
> >
> >
> >
> > I am getting ready to purchase my amp and volt meters for the 12V and 36V
> > banks and had a few questions. There are two ways that I know of to tap
> > into a line to measure current. One is a direct splice and the other is
> > using a meter that has a DROK/necklace that encircles the wire you want to
> > measure. Would like to know the best way to go on those types. It would be
> > a lot easier to use a necklace type to minimize the amount of splices that
> > I have to make and moisture proof but a friend of mine said that there is a
> > minute difference in readings if the wire is up against the side of the
> > necklace rather than in the middle and I also wounder if having the
> > necklace up against the steel hull would mess with the readings?  I also
> > assume that I should have a separate amp meter for each of my three
> > thrusters?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Rick
> >
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Jan 8, 2018 at 6:08 AM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <
> > personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> >
> > Cliff,   I ordered those items !    I'm going to get another style flow
> > meter as well .  How accurate is that acrylic flow meter?
> >
> >
> >
> > Brian
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:
> >
> > From: Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.
> > org>
> > To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.
> > org>
> > Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] At Home O2 Cleaning Process
> > Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2018 14:21:18 -0600
> >
> > Brian, in my (Air Monitoring, Oxygen Control) AMOC system, I use a Porter
> > 201-FSVP mass controller.  Ebay has these units for sell all the time at
> > pennies on the dollar. These unit will both measure the mass rate of the
> > gas in SLPM and also control it. There are two 0-5VDC control signals for
> > the unit.  For this partuclar unit which has a 0-10 SLPM span, if you give
> > the controller pin 5V, then it will pass 10 SLPM if you give it 0V, it will
> > pass zero SLPM.  The other singal is an analog voltage output signal again
> > 5Vdc for full span, would be a measured 10 SLPM and a zero signal means it
> > is reading zero mass flowrate of gas.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/
> > Porter-201-AFASVPAA-Mass-Flow-Controller-10-SLPM-760-Torr-
> > MFC/232159305887?hash=item360dc5e09f:g:BTAAAOSwmrlUrcG1 is a link to ebay
> > for a unit very close to this.  Porter (Parker) make a ton of different
> > controller for different rates and different gasses.  The controller as a 9
> > pin blade style connector that is used widely in the medical industry.  The
> > documentation on these meters is excellent and you can download it
> > https://www.parker.com/literature/MFM%20&%20MFC%20(D-
> > Conn.)%20(FM-898%20Rev.%20E).pdf .  The manual calls out the spec for the
> > connector.  I use this unit with a PLC but single it is analog voltage
> > signals, you could control with potentiometer off a 5VDC source.  Likewise
> > you could use an analog display that would take a 0-5VDC signal if you
> > wanted. I have found these units to be very reliable.  In my Life support
> > system module, I use a Swagelok a Vernier needle valve model SS-SS4-VH as
> > a bypass around this controller for manual O2 bleed control.  As a backup,
> > I use a variable area meter like https://www.amazon.com/dp/
> > B019YS4PSG/ref=asc_df_B019YS4PSG5328541/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&
> > creativeASIN=B019YS4PSG&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198097951144&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=
> > g&hvrand=6957636125906653374&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=
> > c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027968&hvtargid=pla-542207540152 .
> >
> >
> >
> > Cliff
> >
> >
> >
> > On Sat, Jan 6, 2018 at 1:56 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <
> > personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> >
> > I just talked to my local dive shop and they will fill O2 no questions
> > asked .  They say they do it all the time.  I'm thinking of getting set up
> > with a package from DAN  Here:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > https://www.diversalertnetwork.org/dive-store/?catno=9
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > It seems to be somewhat problematic getting the right all the components
> > but getting one of these units from the DAN website might make things
> > easier as far as getting bottles filled and so forth.  The delivery system
> > on these units I don't think has enough fine tuning ability however.  Does
> > anyone have a good flow meter to recommend?  Is there an analog type with a
> > little ball that floats up and down?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Brian
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:
> >
> > From: "Sean T. Stevenson via Personal_Submersibles" <
> > personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> > To: personal_submersibles at psubs.org
> > Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] At Home O2 Cleaning Process
> > Date: Sat, 06 Jan 2018 13:58:20 -0500
> >
> > I use dilute acetic acid to remove any existing corrosion, and then a
> > non-solvent hydrocarbon-free detergent solution to clean, followed by a
> > freshwater rinse, and possibly another cycle using a separate clean batch
> > of detergent solution. Use dedicated brushes for each bin. A lint-free
> > cloth should come back clean, and the cleaner solution and rinse water
> > should both produce no fluorescence under UV (black light). Dry passively,
> > or with filtered air or bottled nitrogen so as not to reintroduce any
> > contaminants. Any subsequent lubrication or assembly with lubricated soft
> > parts should be done with oxygen compatible lubricants (i.e. Christolube).
> >
> > Sean
> >
> > Sent from ProtonMail mobile
> >
> >
> >
> > -------- Original Message --------
> > On Jan 6, 2018, 09:23, Steve McQueen via Personal_Submersibles <
> > personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > All, I am working on cleaning some parts/pieces for O2 service on my
> > K-250. I am buying most items “pre-cleaned” such as: Tank w/Valve, First
> > Stage Regulator, Thru Hull Isolation Valve, Flow Regulator.
> >
> >
> >
> > However, I will have some parts & pieces (mainly misc. adaptors and ¼ SS
> > tubing) I may still need to clean.
> >
> > I know an “at home” process will fall short but looking to create/document
> > a procedure anyway.
> >
> > ·        I am using ASTM G93, "Standard Practice for Cleaning Methods and
> > Cleanliness Levels for Material and Equipment Used in Oxygen-Enriched
> > Environments" as the standard.
> >
> > ·
> >
> > ·        Maybe someone already has a procedure (or opinion) they want to
> > share?
> >
> > Steve
> >
> >
> >
> > ·
> >
> >
> >
> > ·        I am using ASTM G93, "Standard Practice for Cleaning Methods and
> > Cleanliness Levels for Material and Equipment Used in Oxygen-Enriched
> > Environments" as the standard.  I know an “at home” process will fall short
> > but looking to create/document a procedure anyway.
> >
> > ·
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________ Personal_Submersibles
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> >
> >
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> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________ Personal_Submersibles
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> >
> >
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> >
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> >
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