[PSUBS-MAILIST] LED lights

Fri Feb 2 15:19:43 EST 2018

 Rick,Now don't laugh, but,,, I bought some LED car headlights from China for 30 bucks or so and put them in my fixtures.  They have a little fan on them that circulates air for cooling.  They work pretty good at 24,000L but not as good as the light bar.  Just saying, cheap idea.  Hank
    On Friday, February 2, 2018, 1:08:08 PM MST, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:  

 Alan,
Very impressive system! I am planning on having 5 on my sub so not sure those would be in my budget...Rick
On Fri, Feb 2, 2018 at 9:24 AM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

Rick,They are 1 atm, not oil filled.I bought the 7000 lm emitter from the manufacturer in China.They make the bridgelux emitters. I had ordered them with the pigtails onas I didn't want to overheat the emitter with my cheap soldering set up.The driver is the circuit board you can see with a potentiometer for dimmingcoming off it. This is a buck / boost constant current driver, meaning it cantake any voltage between 12-54V & boost it up to or drop it down to 36V &also maintain a constant current. Led's get hot & draw more current so need acc driver to stop them burning out. Not a problem if the voltage is below a certain threshold. The driver was manufactured to my specs in China. As said before, I am going to have this modified. I ordered the housing from a different supplier.The led is screwed on to the base with a heat transferring paste. I have tiny teflonwashers under the screws. There is a teflon gasket that the lens sits on &another as a buffer sitting on the led screws as protection against wires shortingon the housing where they are soldered on to the led.I have 4 o-ring seals, two in the base, one at the side of the lens & one on topof the lens. At the top of the photo you can see a mold  I made for a cable support & tidyup of the wiring. The wiring was embedded in resin then overlaid to an inchup the pvc wiring with a pvc glue before the polyurathane cable support wasmolded over it. ( not shown)6 bolts run right through it with nuts at the back holding it all together.I can mount it using these bolts. longer bolts can be used for mounting ifnecessary. Alternatively the front plate can be made wider with additionalholes for mounting to a hole in the superstructure etc.The housing is aluminium & was marine anodised.I do have drawings on my computer & machining notes that may need updating. The light was tested to 2000ft but would probably go at least4000ft.You are welcome to more detail if you are still keen to make some up.Cheers Alan

On 3/02/2018, at 6:35 AM, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs. org> wrote:

Hi Alan,
Did you buy just a 7,000lm array and put them in a housing or did they already come in a housing and you filled them like Hank did? Not sure what a driver is either?? Is it a PWM that acts like a driver and a dimmer as well? Do you have any pictures on your projects and photos page of this I can look at and could you send me the particulars offline on where you bought the drivers and arrays? and Cliff, please send me what you have as well.Mahalo!satwelder at gmail.comThanksRick
On Thu, Feb 1, 2018 at 12:31 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs. org> wrote:

Rick,I have built my led 7000lm 36V lights & are going to use 2 out front.I have used them on a boat & in the bush & don't consider them an overkill. I think with the clear water in Hawaii you would want morelumens as there will be a further distance that you can see night diving.I have dimmers on mine for low visibility diving, as the back scatter fromthe muck in the water will be blinding.Led's need a driver to give them constant current & of lesser importanceconstant voltage. They are reasonably voltage tolerant as long as the current is controlled. I mistakenly had a 36V led running off 80V. You can build your own but for me it was a lot of mucking about designing,sourcing lenses from China etc. I had my led driver designed & madespecifically for me by a Chinese firm. I am not happy with aspects of thedesign as there is a certain part that needs heat sinking & default modeis on if the wiring comes apart. So will be re-ordering an updated driversome time in the future.You can find suitable buck boost drivers on ebay as Alec did, but not withdimming.They don't get too hot if you run them in water & heat sink them to a base.The easiest idea, as Hank says is to find a suitable off the shelf light thatyou can oil compensate. The drivers however have electrolytic capacitorsthat are vulnerable to pressure, so if the driver is in the light unit it couldfail under pressure if compensated.I have subjected an led on it's own to 2000psi & it survived.Most of the high power leds are around 36V.Let me know if I can help.Emile sells an led light!Cheers Alan

Sent from my iPad
On 2/02/2018, at 10:33 AM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> wrote:

 Rick,You can keep it real simple and just buy water proof lights (LED) and oil fill them.  Just inspect the light to make sure you can drill and put a filler plug in.  I have great luck with a 24,000 lumen light bar.   I am actually buying a clear acrylic cylinder to put my light into.  Alec has had luck with this also, maybe he can suggest the particular light to use.Hank
    On Thursday, February 1, 2018, 2:06:41 PM MST, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> wrote:  

 I have been experimenting with my LED exterior lights which is a field I know nothing about which makes it even that much more frustrating and wanted to get feedback from those who have had success so far using them.
I was planning on using incandescent lights but everyone I talk to say that LED is the only way to go. I guess my reasoning for staying with incandescent was that it was a no brainier for me but I liked what I heard about LED. I initially figured that if 10 lumans is good 10,000 is much better but I am finding out that once you get up to that high a luman, a lot of things kick in that you have to deal with!
I also am thinking that I can probably get away with a heck of a lot less lumans due to the visibility that we have here in Hawaii so maybe all I need are 5,000 luman lights which put out a lot less heat and don't have to deal with some of the issues that a 10,000 luman light would.
All input appreciated!In the dark in Hawaii! not to mention fake missile alerts!!
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