[PSUBS-MAILIST] home made actuator

Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Sun Aug 12 19:54:48 EDT 2018


I also like the idea of for/after trim especially when picking something
with the arm or in my case, added aft buoyancy as I use the HP air in my
aft outside aluminum 80,s. For blowing ballast.
I know lower is better for CG but I thought I saw several years ago someone
post a picture of a manual rolling tray just above the internal frames
inside that had a thin slab of lead in it which may not give you enough
pitch Hank but would be easy to fabricate being all internal and also
possibly overcome light arm loads?
Does anyone remember who that was with the tray?

Rick

On Sun, Aug 12, 2018 at 4:25 PM Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> Hank,
> more thoughts that you may not necessarily want to incorporate at
> this stage. The linear actuator is just a turning threaded rod; if we
> used an exposed underwater motor like the blue robotics item & corrosion
> resistant gear box to drive a threaded stainless shaft, you wouldn't need
> to oil compensate & seal the actuator & could have as much travel as you
> wanted. You could even have enough travel to push the 400lb weight off
> the end of it's track, making it a drop weight.
> Alan
>
>
> On 13/08/2018, at 10:56 AM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Hank,
> ok I follow now. The suggestion was just in line with my
> " keep it simple" policy.
> Cheers Alan
>
>
> On 13/08/2018, at 10:48 AM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Alan,
> Yes for sure, except I want to be able to tip the sub up or down to
> improve the visibility.
> Hank
>
> On Sunday, August 12, 2018, 3:42:56 PM MDT, Alan via Personal_Submersibles
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>
> Hank,
> maybe Brian is right! Once the trim is adjusted correctly you wouldn't need
> to touch it again would you? Unless you took your manipulators off
> or something major like that.
> You could dive just under the surface & get a diver to wind it, or
> resurface, wind a bit & try it again.
> Alan
>
> On 13/08/2018, at 5:29 AM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Brian,
> Yes that is a great idea, just put the crank by the arm and use the arm to
> wind it in and out lol
> Or I can just open a window and reach out. LOL
> Hank
> On Sunday, August 12, 2018, 7:42:27 AM MDT, Brian Cox via
> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>
> Hank,
>             You could always put a hand crank on it !   that would keep it
> simple ;-)
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:
>
> From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> To: Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] home made actuator
> Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2018 11:51:48 +0000 (UTC)
>
> Brian,
> I agree the acme thread rod would work well.  In fact, that is where I
> started with the idea.  I would need a gear box to up the torque and I am
> trying to keep it simple to build.  If the other two options don't work
> out, I will be back to the acme rod.
> Hank
>
> On Sunday, August 12, 2018, 5:05:26 AM MDT, Alan via Personal_Submersibles
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>
> Hank,
> that blue robotics motor was 4.5 in lbs torque. (.38 ft lbs) So you would
> probably have to gear it anyway, or buy a motor controller that could
> handle a lot of amps. They sell motor controllers for that motor. The only
> thing
> that can be a bit problematic with the brushless motor controllers is that
> if they are designed for the hobby market they are normally operated
> via a transmitter & receiver not a potentiometer. There are electronics
> to get round that.
> I just bought a pressure sensor / temperature sensor & underwater switch
> off Blue Robotics.
> I am sure that actuator motor will be DC.
> I will be interested to hear how you get on with it.
> Alan
>
> On 12/08/2018, at 10:33 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Alan,
> That is a very slick motor alright, but it needs a controller.  You know
> how I try to avoid electronic components whenever possible.  Also i am
> trying to keep the cost down by using parts that I already have.  I have a
> satellite dish actuator and I have a trolling motor on the shelf.  I am
> picking up the actuator today from the shop and bringing it home to tear
> down.  I am quite excited that it might be DC.
> Hank
>
> On Sunday, August 12, 2018, 3:57:07 AM MDT, Alan via Personal_Submersibles
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>
> Hank,
> what about using one of these 350W brushless underwater motors
> from blue robotics!
> https://www.bluerobotics.com/store/thrusters/m200-motor-r1/
> They sell them as rov motors & for that use I have reservations, as the
> prop
> could drive sand etc in to the sealed windings & possibly wear through the
> insulation. But for turning a threaded rod that moved your trim weight they
> might be fine. Certainly save a lot of stuffing round modifying a linear
> actuator. I saw these motors on a reasonably expensive rov recently.
> Cheers Alan
>
> On 12/08/2018, at 9:45 AM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Alan,
> I just had a look at the one you found, and I did not realize they were
> DC.  I thought they were AC, well that is awesome!
> Thanks"
> Hank
>
> On Saturday, August 11, 2018, 3:40:12 PM MDT, hank pronk via
> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>
> Alan,
> I think they are probably song enough, I just swap the AC motor out.  I
> don't need 400 lbs to do the job but I need 400 lbs of ballast.  I am
> actually planning to make a moving cradle that also carries the oil filled
> batteries.  I don't know how much force it will require, but, the cradle
> will be on rollers to make it easy.
> I am ready to test for balance, so I will have to switch over to building
> a test pool.  My plan to put an in ground pool in my new shop is out now
> because there is a giant lathe in the way.
> Hank
>
> On Saturday, August 11, 2018, 3:34:01 PM MDT, Alan via
> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>
> Hank,
> my first thought was satellite dish actuator.
> This one is claiming 500lb capacity.
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Venture-18-Inch-Linear-Actuator-36V-Jack-Arm-with-Saddle-Clamp-Satellite-Dish-/271574942987
> But you wouldn't need that with horizontal travel. Any idea what force it
> takes to pull / push it? I assume it is external.
> Just wondering why you need 400lb!
> Cheers Alan
>
>
> On 12/08/2018, at 8:54 AM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
> I am in need of a long stroke electric actuator to move my 400 lb trim
> weight.  Of coarse I want to make one.  I am planning to either add a oil
> filled trolling motor to a trailer jack or mount the trolling motor to a
> satellite dish actuator.  I have not dismantled the satellite dish actuator
> yet to see if it can handle the job.  I think it can but I will see.
> Anyone have another idea?
> Hank
>
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