[PSUBS-MAILIST] Penetrator materials

Sean T. Stevenson via Personal_Submersibles personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Tue May 16 21:27:40 EDT 2017 

MG Chemicals have a variety of epoxy potting and encapsulation compounds, and I think one of them is specifically marketed as being flexible, which might be exactly what you're looking for. Check their website.

Sean


On May 16, 2017 7:01:13 PM MDT, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>Hank,Juries not out on how I want to do that.I don't think I'll have
>the glue on the conductor, I will just embed the conductor &
>insulation& a portion of the cable sheath in the epoxy & then go over
>the aluminum fitting & cablewith the glue & then encapsulate it all in
>polyurethane potting mix.Alan
>
>From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2017 12:37 PM
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Penetrator materials
>   
>Alan,Your idea to use a silicone or similar to back up the epoxy is a
>good idea.  My epoxy multi wire connector will let teeny tiny air
>bubbles through when I exceed 1,000 psi.  You will have to strip the
>wire back far enough for the silicone to stick to the conductor.Hank 
>
>On Tuesday, May 16, 2017 6:18 PM, Stephen Fordyce via
>Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> 
>
>Hi Alan,I'd be interested to see what you come up with on cable. 
>My research indicated a polyurethane outer sheath was the way to go
>(and it's held up extremely well to the punishment my caving lights
>have seen) but that's also really expensive and hard to get.  I
>previously used PVC and it held up well enough, slightly different
>application though.
>The China stuff - yep there's a lot of good stuff, but also a lot of
>bad stuff.  Your experience is pretty bad though, usually they are a
>lot better than that.
>Cheers,Steve
>On Wed, May 17, 2017 at 10:03 AM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>Thanks Steve,I found some in a local sports shop. I'll see how it likes
>themarine environment!   Have changed tack a bit as I thought I should
>be nailing downexactly what cable I'm going to use so I know what
>material I amgluing to. G.L. wants self extinguishing sheathing /
>insulation& halogen free. Also can't be hydroscopic.    Got my pressure
>sensors back from China (again) they now havethe right fitting but
>still a sloppy fit. They sent them out with an over-sized o-ring that
>wouldn't fit, even though I supplied them a first stage regulator for
>testing. I am thinking that your originalsuggestion of an adapter would
>have been a better way to go!Alan 
>
>Sent from my iPad
>On 17/05/2017, at 10:54 AM, Stephen Fordyce via Personal_Submersibles
><personal_submersibles at psubs. org> wrote:
>
>
>Hi Alan,Try searching for Shoe Goo - I gather it's the same stuff. I've
>got some off ebay in Australia and used with good success on wetsuit
>gloves for caving. Liquid Electrical Engineering Tape is also good if
>you brush it on in thin layers.
>Cheers,Steve
>On 17 May 2017 6:50 am, "Alan via Personal_Submersibles"
><personal_submersibles at psubs. org> wrote:
>
>Hank,thanks, I feel I am getting somewhere.I can't find Goop in N.Z.
>but have been looking at other marine products.You are right about the
>silicone not being ideal. 90 % of the marine adhesivesI looked at are
>polyurethane based products.  Although the outer mouldedsection will be
>polyurethane, sometimes mouldable products lose a bit of theiradhesion
>with their "bulking" additives.Keith Gordon gave me a link to a product
>he has used for splicing underwatercables. You squirt the glue in to
>heat shrink tubing that is around the cables, thenheat the ends of the
>heat shrink tubing to close it. I will do a bit more research on that
>today.Alan
>
>Sent from my iPad
>On 17/05/2017, at 12:11 AM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles ed
><personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> wrote:
>
>
>Alan,Got it, there is a way better option than silicone for that.  The
>product is call Goop or shoe goo.  This stuff is amazing, it sticks
>much better than silicone and is super tough.  I patch my waders with
>it, and you can not peel it off, no way no how.Hank 
>
>On Tuesday, May 16, 2017 4:25 AM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles
><personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> wrote:
> 
>
>Hank,I see you can't sleep again!Thanks for the offer on the windshield
>polyurethane. My thought process went like this.... I had seen Doug's
>video where hehad several failures using just the epoxy, so I was going
>to coat the epoxywith silicone to seal it better. On my Subconn
>connectors I noticed theyhave a thin layer of rubber vulcanised for
>about an inch up the wire casing;I wanted to mimic this but with
>silicone. Then the polyurethane outer was,as I have said, a cable
>support, protection for the silicone & to make it looktidy. It didn't
>necessarily have to adhere to the silicone. I need a material that will
>compress at a similar rate as the cable I amusing, so that one surface
>doesn't pull away from the other.I might test the silicone against the
>polyurathane to see what adheres bestto my wiring & aluminium light
>housing, & go from there.I will have at least 50 through hull fittings
>to do & am open to playing aroundwith a few variations to get it
>right.Cheers Alan 
>
>Sent from my iPad
>On 16/05/2017, at 9:38 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles
><personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> wrote:
>
>
>Alan,There is really no need for the silicone layer, in fact it might
>cause you grief trying to get another material to stick to it.  If you
>need some testing done on the windshield stuff, let me know, I have
>some left over.Hank 
>
>On Monday, May 15, 2017 7:10 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles
><personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> wrote:
> 
>
>Thanks, I will have a look at that it sounds like it would have
>theadhesion that's needed.This stuff is designed for encapsulating
>electronics in marineenvironments. I was going to use it over a thin
>layer of silicone butmight not use the silicone now. Alan
>
>Sent from my iPad
>On 16/05/2017, at 12:06 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles
><personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> wrote:
>
>
>Alan,I have good luck with windshield adhesive (poly urethane)  I used
>it as a liquid rubber.  It is super tough and cheap.Hank 
>
>On Monday, May 15, 2017 5:40 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles
><personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> wrote:
> 
>
>Ended up ordering this encapsulating 2 part flexible polyurethane,
> that is suitable for a marine
>environment.http://nz.element14.com/robnor
>/el110h-bk-250/encapsulant-2k- flex-pu-gp-marine/dp/1891122Will see how
>it goes!Alan
>
>Sent from my iPad
>On 16/05/2017, at 3:43 AM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles
><personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> wrote:
>
>
>
>Thanks Hank,I need the two wires to angle off to the sides as they are
>soldered onto the corners of the LED.Yes I could thread the outside of
>the nozzle & put on a blue globe cable gland,I have some. Even though
>Carsten & Emile are advocates of the Blue globe,they do fit two on each
>penetration; one on the outside, one on the inside &I can't do that
>with the light fitting.   I have come across a few likely candidates
>for the outer covering in the wayof a mouldable polyurethane for marine
>applications......https://www.aeromarineproducts
>.com/product/urethane-75a-enca psulating-compound/This is an American
>product I can't locate here in N.Z.. Have found a localproduct
>...http://www.electrolube.co.nz/p roducts/encapsulation-resins-p
>olyurethane/ur5118/polyurethan e-potting-compound/Cheers Alan 
>
>Sent from my iPad
>On 15/05/2017, at 11:59 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles
><personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> wrote:
>
>
>Alan,In an effort to keep it easy and clean looking, I would extend the
>penetrator body at the wet side to allow for  threading on a
>compression fitting.   Slide your cable into that and snug the nut and
>it is done and clean looking.   Also from my experience, I would not
>angle the wires, I would make it strait through and strip as much of
>the jacket as possible.  I am sure your drawing is not representing the
>actual amount to be stripped, but it should be more significant. 
>Keeping it strait will make it a lot easier, I have done over 20 wires
>in one penetrator with a strait threaded bore.  Hank 
>
>On Sunday, May 14, 2017 9:40 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles
><personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> wrote:
> 
>
>Hi,I have a number of penetrators to do on my lights & other items, &
>I'mlooking for the best materials for them.My design is as below. It is
>the base of my light housing.I have stripped a small section of wire
>that runs through the epoxy. I am not sure of the best material on the
>next 2 layers.I am looking at this marine silicone, to seal about an
>inch up the wiring jacket.http://www.selleys.co.nz/car-c
>are/sealants/marine/Am thinking I will apply this silicone with a brush
>& then tidy things up & both protect the silicone & support the cable
>with a molded rubberized outer layer.I am not sure of a suitable
>moldable material for a marine environment.Am guessing I will need
>about the same hardness as a standard o-ring.Any suggestions on the
>material or comments on the design thanks.Alan
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